<div dir="ltr">Assuming you mean the penetrator that passes through the hull? It attaches to the motor by screwing into the existing threaded hole where the original fibreglass shaft attached.</div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On 9 June 2016 at 14:17, via Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">How does the rotator attach to the motor?<br>
<span class="im HOEnZb"><br>
Thank you,<br>
Scott Waters<br>
<br>
> -------Original Message-------<br>
</span><span class="im HOEnZb">> From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br>
> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br>
> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] fiberglass<br>
</span><div class="HOEnZb"><div class="h5">> Sent: Jun 08 '16 10:14<br>
><br>
> James,<br>
> Yes I always thread in penetrators now, right beside the brush on each<br>
> side, super easy!<br>
> As for taking the motor apart, the wires are coiled inside to allow<br>
> for removing the end cap with the brushes. Its a bitch, and I hate it!<br>
> but it is better than try to rotate the wires in the tight turn in the<br>
> housing. Of coarse a test assemble to ensure the wire length works<br>
> before epoxy is important. There is potential for damaging a wire and<br>
> not knowing it is damaged. Maybe my motors have a tighter turn in them<br>
> than the 101's. Either way, I like the way I do it now.<br>
> Hank<br>
> ps; nice picture<br>
><br>
> On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 8:58 AM, James Frankland via<br>
> Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br>
><br>
> Hank. What if you have to take the motors apart for anything? They are<br>
> potted now and you get the same problem as I have\had?? I made a<br>
> brilliant picture.<br>
><br>
> The problem for me is getting the cables from the potted shafts onto<br>
> the spade terminals while trying to push the brushed back through a<br>
> 2mm hole.... Probably the same awkward bend as you mentioned.<br>
><br>
> If I did this again, I would probably have the cables threaded and<br>
> going outside and then back into the hull through a standard<br>
> penetrator. If I read it right that's what you've done. And I might<br>
> even do away with the rotating motors and have 4 of them static.<br>
><br>
> <br>
><br>
</div></div><div class="HOEnZb"><div class="h5">> On 8 June 2016 at 12:39, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles<br>
> <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br>
><br>
> > O ya one more thing, to remove the original shaft, heat it up first,<br>
> > there seems to be some sort of lock tight on the threads.<br>
> > Hank<br>
> ><br>
> > On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 5:35 AM, hank pronk via<br>
> > Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br>
> ><br>
> > I have opted for drilling and tapping in penetrators rather then run<br>
> > the wires through the shaft opening. If you go with your wires<br>
> > through the pivot shaft, I found that a two step process works for<br>
> > me. First I put the wires through the motor opening and seal them in<br>
> > place. The epoxy does not need to go into the motor, so I just<br>
> > silicone the wires at the motor so epoxy does not run into the<br>
> > motor. Alan had a great idea to use chewing gum. Then I feed the<br>
> > sealed wires through the shaft and then thread the shaft into the<br>
> > motor and fill with either epoxy or casting resin. I use a casting<br>
> > resin with super high compressive strength. If you install the wires<br>
> > with the epoxy into the shaft first, it is a bugger to rotate the<br>
> > shaft into the threads because my motors have an akward bend that<br>
> > the wires have to make. I have not used 101's though, just 50 lb<br>
> > thrust, but I think they are similar.<br>
> > Hank<br>
> ><br>
> > On Wednesday, June 8, 2016 4:09 AM, James Frankland via<br>
> > Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br>
> ><br>
> > I made the rotating through hulls with 2x brass rods passing through<br>
> > into the hull.<br>
> ><br>
> > Personally, I find these motors and in particular these through<br>
> > hulls the single most time consuming part of psubbing. Difficult to<br>
> > construct and maintain.<br>
> ><br>
> > <a href="http://www.guernseysubmarine.com/publication2_files/Page21512.htm" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">http://www.guernseysubmarine.com/publication2_files/Page21512.htm</a><br>
> > <a href="http://www.guernseysubmarine.com/extended_files/Page24592.htm" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">http://www.guernseysubmarine.com/extended_files/Page24592.htm</a><br>
> ><br>
> > Biggest problem is that when you have filled the inside of the<br>
> > through hull with epoxy, there is no longer any adjustment on the<br>
> > cable. So you have to make the cables fit without touching any part<br>
> > of the motor innards. Some sort of modification needed im sure. Plus<br>
> > the motors jam in the through hull tubes. Oil compensation is messy<br>
> > and a nuisance.<br>
> ><br>
> > I have seen Emile's hubless motors and these are much better, but<br>
> > not available to us at the moment I don't think.<br>
> ><br>
> > I just took delivery today of 8 brand new AGM batteries...... :)<br>
> ><br>
> > Regards<br>
> > James<br>
> ><br>
> > On 7 June 2016 at 19:59, via Personal_Submersibles<br>
> > <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br>
> ><br>
> >> How has everyone retrofitted the MinKota's to have a 1" rotating<br>
> >> shaft to go through the penetrators?<br>
> >><br>
> >> Thank you,<br>
> >> Scott Waters<br>
> >><br>
> >>> -------Original Message-------<br>
> >>> From: Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles<br>
> >> <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br>
> >>> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion<br>
> >> <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br>
> >>> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] fiberglass<br>
> >>> Sent: Jun 07 '16 13:10<br>
> >>><br>
> >>> I have the Minn-Kota 101,s and would like to see how those who<br>
> >> have<br>
> >>> done it have passed the power cables from the oil filled motor<br>
> >> threw<br>
> >>> the fitting that rotates and passes threw the hull to the<br>
> >> inside.<br>
> >>><br>
> >>> Rick<br>
> >>><br>
> >>> On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 1:53 PM, Alan James via<br>
> >> Personal_Submersibles<br>
> >>> <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br>
> >>><br>
> >>>> Brian,<br>
> >>>> something you could experiment with is applying epoxy to the<br>
> >> glass<br>
> >>>> mat that<br>
> >>>> you want to adhere or on the sub itself & wait till it gets<br>
> >> tacky<br>
> >>>> before applying it.<br>
> >>>> Then apply the rest of the epoxy later, wait till the last<br>
> >> coat gets<br>
> >>>> tacky & add some more<br>
> >>>> glass cloth.<br>
> >>>> You could take your time with that process, but the epoxy is<br>
> >> twice<br>
> >>>> the cost of the polyester.<br>
> >>>> Alan<br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>> -------------------------<br>
> >>>> FROM: Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles<br>
> >>>> <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br>
> >>>> TO: PSubs <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br>
> >>>> SENT: Saturday, May 28, 2016 11:20 AM<br>
> >>>> SUBJECT: [PSUBS-MAILIST] fiberglass<br>
> >><br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>> Hank, I wanted to mention that some of my brilliant upside<br>
> >> down<br>
> >>>> fiberglass work did not go that great. I did not get the<br>
> >> adhesion<br>
> >>>> that I should have, some place seemed fine but other areas I<br>
> >> didn't<br>
> >>>> get the resin to soak in good enough. I may try something<br>
> >> else next<br>
> >>>> time. I may put an initial coat of resin on the underside,<br>
> >> soak the<br>
> >>>> fiberglass and then try to compress it up there some how with<br>
> >> a<br>
> >>>> plastic mold release barrier.<br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>> Brian<br>
> >>>> _______________________________________________<br>
> >>>> Personal_Submersibles mailing list<br>
> >>>> <a href="mailto:Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org">Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org</a><br>
> >>>><br>
> >> <a href="http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles</a><br>
> >>>><br>
> >>>> _______________________________________________<br>
> >>>> Personal_Submersibles mailing list<br>
> >>>> <a href="mailto:Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org">Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org</a><br>
> >>>><br>
> >> <a href="http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles</a><br>
> >>><br>
> >>><br>
> >> _______________________________________________<br>
> >> Personal_Submersibles mailing list<br>
> >> <a href="mailto:Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org">Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org</a><br>
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> ><br>
> > _______________________________________________<br>
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</div></div></blockquote></div><br></div>