<html><body><div style="color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;font-size:16px"><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1437928322311_11930"><span>Hi Al,</span></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1437928322311_11930"><span>I hadn't thought of that.</span></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1437928322311_11930"><span id="yui_3_16_0_1_1437928322311_12760">Am trying to make a case for having the two brightness options & are thinking of ways </span></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1437928322311_11930" dir="ltr"><span id="yui_3_16_0_1_1437928322311_13675">that avoid the extra pin. </span></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1437928322311_11930" dir="ltr"><span id="yui_3_16_0_1_1437928322311_12845">Another option would be to have 24v as high beam & when the IC sees 36v the light goes to low</span></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1437928322311_11930" dir="ltr"><span id="yui_3_16_0_1_1437928322311_13676">beam. So those with the 24v would only have the one option.</span></div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1437928322311_11930" dir="ltr">I have several flash lights that cycle through their various modes. This could be another way of</div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1437928322311_11930" dir="ltr">changing between high & low beam; swith the light off & on again & it goes to the next mode.</div><div id="yui_3_16_0_1_1437928322311_11930" dir="ltr">Alan</div><br> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;" id="yui_3_16_0_1_1437928322311_12851"> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;" id="yui_3_16_0_1_1437928322311_12850"> <div dir="ltr" id="yui_3_16_0_1_1437928322311_12849"> <hr size="1" id="yui_3_16_0_1_1437928322311_12848"> <font size="2" face="Arial" id="yui_3_16_0_1_1437928322311_13424"> <b><span style="font-weight:bold;">From:</span></b> Al Secor via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles@psubs.org><br> <b><span style="font-weight: bold;">To:</span></b> Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles@psubs.org> <br> <b><span style="font-weight: bold;">Sent:</span></b> Monday, July 27, 2015 4:35 AM<br> <b><span style="font-weight: bold;">Subject:</span></b> Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights<br> </font> </div> <div class="y_msg_container" id="yui_3_16_0_1_1437928322311_13843"><br>Alan,<br><br>But then you would be excluding those with only a 24v system from using the max output...I assume the wide voltage input spec is to satisfy both<br>voltage systems.<br><br>Al Secor<br><br>--------------------------------------------<br>On Sun, 7/26/15, Alan via Personal_Submersibles <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br><br> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights<br> To: "Personal Submersibles General Discussion" <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> Date: Sunday, July 26, 2015, 11:57 AM<br> <br> Ken,you<br> are saying the LED operates from 21 to 45<br> volts.If we had a switch that switched between 24<br> & 36 volts in the hull,& an IC that<br> detected the difference in the light housing,then<br> we wouldn't need an extra wire / pin to initiate a<br> changefrom 5000 to 10000 lumens.cheers<br> Alan<br> <br> Sent from my<br> iPad<br> On<br> 27/07/2015, at 1:39 am, Ken Martindale via<br> Personal_Submersibles <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> wrote:<br> <br> #yiv3279730652<br> #yiv3279730652 --<br> <br> _filtered #yiv3279730652 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}<br> _filtered #yiv3279730652 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15<br> 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}<br> _filtered #yiv3279730652 {font-family:Consolas;panose-1:2<br> 11 6 9 2 2 4 3 2 4;}<br> _filtered #yiv3279730652 {panose-1:2 11 5 2 4 2 4 2 2 3;}<br> #yiv3279730652 <br> #yiv3279730652 p.yiv3279730652MsoNormal, #yiv3279730652<br> li.yiv3279730652MsoNormal, #yiv3279730652<br> div.yiv3279730652MsoNormal<br> {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}<br> #yiv3279730652 a:link, #yiv3279730652<br> span.yiv3279730652MsoHyperlink<br> {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}<br> #yiv3279730652 a:visited, #yiv3279730652<br> span.yiv3279730652MsoHyperlinkFollowed<br> {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}<br> #yiv3279730652 p<br> {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;}<br> #yiv3279730652 pre<br> {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:10.0pt;}<br> #yiv3279730652 p.yiv3279730652msoacetate, #yiv3279730652<br> li.yiv3279730652msoacetate, #yiv3279730652<br> div.yiv3279730652msoacetate<br> {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;}<br> #yiv3279730652 p.yiv3279730652msonormal, #yiv3279730652<br> li.yiv3279730652msonormal, #yiv3279730652<br> div.yiv3279730652msonormal<br> {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;}<br> #yiv3279730652 p.yiv3279730652msochpdefault, #yiv3279730652<br> li.yiv3279730652msochpdefault, #yiv3279730652<br> div.yiv3279730652msochpdefault<br> {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;}<br> #yiv3279730652 p.yiv3279730652msonormal1, #yiv3279730652<br> li.yiv3279730652msonormal1, #yiv3279730652<br> div.yiv3279730652msonormal1<br> {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}<br> #yiv3279730652 p.yiv3279730652msoacetate1, #yiv3279730652<br> li.yiv3279730652msoacetate1, #yiv3279730652<br> div.yiv3279730652msoacetate1<br> {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:8.0pt;}<br> #yiv3279730652 p.yiv3279730652msochpdefault1, #yiv3279730652<br> li.yiv3279730652msochpdefault1, #yiv3279730652<br> div.yiv3279730652msochpdefault1<br> {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:10.0pt;}<br> #yiv3279730652 span.yiv3279730652msohyperlink<br> {}<br> #yiv3279730652 span.yiv3279730652msohyperlinkfollowed<br> {}<br> #yiv3279730652 span.yiv3279730652emailstyle19<br> {}<br> #yiv3279730652 span.yiv3279730652emailstyle20<br> {}<br> #yiv3279730652 span.yiv3279730652emailstyle21<br> {}<br> #yiv3279730652 span.yiv3279730652msohyperlink1<br> {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}<br> #yiv3279730652 span.yiv3279730652msohyperlinkfollowed1<br> {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}<br> #yiv3279730652 span.yiv3279730652emailstyle191<br> {color:#1F497D;}<br> #yiv3279730652 span.yiv3279730652emailstyle201<br> {color:#1F497D;}<br> #yiv3279730652 span.yiv3279730652emailstyle211<br> {color:#1F497D;}<br> #yiv3279730652 span.yiv3279730652EmailStyle33<br> {color:#1F497D;}<br> #yiv3279730652 p.yiv3279730652msonor, #yiv3279730652<br> li.yiv3279730652msonor, #yiv3279730652<br> div.yiv3279730652msonor<br> {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;}<br> #yiv3279730652 p.yiv3279730652mson, #yiv3279730652<br> li.yiv3279730652mson, #yiv3279730652 div.yiv3279730652mson<br> {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;}<br> #yiv3279730652 span.yiv3279730652HTMLPreformattedChar<br> {}<br> #yiv3279730652 span.yiv3279730652EmailStyle39<br> {color:#1F497D;}<br> #yiv3279730652 .yiv3279730652MsoChpDefault<br> {font-size:10.0pt;}<br> _filtered #yiv3279730652 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}<br> #yiv3279730652 div.yiv3279730652WordSection1<br> {}<br> #yiv3279730652 Sean, There will not be any change in<br> the LED intensity as long as the input voltage is between<br> 21.6 volts and 45 volts. We will tightly regulate the<br> current into the LED array. Noise on the power input may not<br> be a problem within certain limits since the input EMI<br> filter will handle a fair amount of noise. If your slip rings break the power<br> flow the light will continue to operate for about 3 to 8<br> milliseconds or less. It won’t be damaged or degraded.<br> Might get some interesting current surges<br> though. Can’t make a statement about the<br> commercial drivers since some of them are low quality (they<br> still mostly work). Ken From: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org">personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org</a>]<br> On Behalf Of Sean T. Stevenson via<br> Personal_Submersibles<br> Sent: Sunday,<br> July 26, 2015 8:52 AM<br> To: Personal<br> Submersibles General Discussion <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED<br> Lights How sensitive are<br> LED drivers to supply voltage stability? If I were to, for<br> example, feed the LED light with 24 VDC that must first pass<br> through a set of electrical slip rings, would any<br> fluctuation in resistance or momentary interruption to the<br> supply harm the light?Sean On July 26, 2015 6:38:23 AM<br> MDT, Ken Martindale via Personal_Submersibles <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> wrote:Basically that’s the same<br> for this light except it will shut off until it cools down,<br> take a look at the spec. Ken From:<br> Personal_Submersibles [mailto:<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org">personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org</a>]<br> On B! ehalf Of Alan James via<br> Personal_Submersibles<br> Sent: Saturday,<br> July 25, 2015 9:21 PM<br> To: Personal<br> Submersibles General Discussion <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED<br> Lights Thanks for that info<br> Hugh.This extract from a manual below,<br> is for a 700lm light. So heating as you say will be a big<br> issue.How<br> hard is thermal rollback Ken???..... <br> General Notes and Warnings The Nano SeaLite can be run in<br> air, but will go into thermal rollback, where its light<br> output diminishes to protect the light from overheating.<br> This is normal and purposely designed to protect the LEDs<br> from being damaged by excess heat buildup while running in<br> air. The light will return to full brightness once it is<br> submerged in water or it’s allowed to cool down. This<br> thermal rollback will not happen when light is being<br> operated in water under normal usage. WARNING When the Nano<br> SeaLite is operated in air the body may reach temperatures<br> in excess of 65° C. These temperatures may be enough to<br> cause burns if the light is handled without protective<br> clothing.Alan From: Hugh Fulton via<br> Personal_Submersibles <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> To: 'Personal Submersibles General<br> Discussion' <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> <br> Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2015 12:34<br> PM<br> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED<br> Lights 40<br> degrees gives you 30 degrees120<br> degrees! gives you 80 degreesIt<br> doesn’t matter whether acrylic, Glass or borosilicate with<br> flat planes.The<br> only reservation on my lights is that I have not done a lens<br> for the seawater to optimise angles etc. Also my reflector<br> is round with a square LED.Looks great in the swimming pool<br> at night but as I haven’t dived it I have no experience as<br> to how it will look in the sea. <br> With a really compact light and 94 watts of heat it is not<br> going to last long in the air. It will need serious<br> fins. Needs to be idiot proof.One<br> thing is that it needs to have automatic dimming reduction<br> for temperature so it does not desolder or destroy O⡍ rings etc.I<br> will try and work out how the forum works and go to that. <br> I could not get into it but could view it. Hugh From: Personal_Submersibles<br> [mailto:<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org">personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org</a>]<br> On Behalf Of Ken Martindale via<br> Personal_Submersibles<br> Sent: Sunday,<br> 26 July 2015 11:58 a.m.<br> To:<br> 'Personal Submersibles General Discussion'<br> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED<br> Lights PS<br> We are supposed to be discussing the LED light on the<br> forum? ken From: Personal_Submersibles<br> [mailto:<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org">personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org</a>]<br> On Behalf Of Hugh Fulton via Personal_Submersibles<br> Sent:<br> Saturday, July 25, 2015 7:33 PM<br> To:<br> 'Personal Submersibles General Discussion' <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED<br> Lights Re-<br> Dimming.Would it not be better to have 2<br> switchable intensities rather than variable. Then you can<br> have a 3 position switch. Is it simpler?Hugh From: Personal_Submersibles<br> [mailto:<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org">personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org</a>]<br> On Behalf Of Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles<br> Sent: Sunday, 26 July 2015 8:20 a.m.<br> To: Personal Submersibles General<br> Discussion<br> Subject: Re:<br> [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED Lights Yes<br> we did but we had two members that were pushing hard for<br> dimming. From feedback, we were two for and two against. <br> I would prefer not have it but if it makes the lite more<br> generally accepted, I am willing to incorporate it. This<br> last version of suggestions are just that, suggestions. A<br> understand that nothing is frozen and we still do not have<br> final consensus. Cliff On<br> Sat, Jul 25, 2015 at 3:13 PM, Ken Martindale via<br> Personal_Submersibles <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> wrote:Cliff, Dimming, I thought we deleted<br> this?Ken From: Personal_Submersibles<br> [mailto:<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org">personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org</a>]<br> On Behalf Of Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles<br> Sent: Saturday! , July 25, 2015 3:29<br> PM<br> To: Personal Submersibles General<br> Discussion <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED<br> Lights Ken, I took you latest pass on<br> spec and generated a one page summary.<br> Cliff On<br> Sat, Jul 25, 2015 at 9:48 AM, Ken Martindale via<br> Personal_Submersibles <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> wrote:This light will require<br> substantial cooling! . Total dissipation is about 94<br> watts. Puts out a lot of light.<br> Ken From: Personal_Submersibles<br> [mailto:<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org">personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org</a>]<br> On Behalf Of Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles<br> Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2015 10:18<br> AM<br> To: Personal Submersibles General<br> Discussion <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-M! AILIST] LED<br> Lights Alan, my thinking is that with the<br> flange, you could mount the light either way. On the new<br> boat I am designing, I am planning a FRP recess so that<br> outside of the flange is flush with the outside of the FRP<br> shell. Would still need to cut a hole were the body passes<br> through the FRP shell. Yes this does reduce the convection<br> heat transfer from the light but I was thinking of leaving<br> say a 3/8 clearance around the recessed flange. I<br> don't see any problem with either approach to sealing on<br> a MPB by using a neoprene flat<br> gadget. Cliff On<br> Fri, Jul 24, 2015 at 3:58 PM, Alan James via<br> Personal_Submersibles <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> wrote:Cliff,I<br> was thinking of fitting the light in to a bowl<br> shapedrecess in the fairing / ballast<br> tank, whereas you were proposingcutting a hole out & fitting<br> it in. In hindsight your idea is<br> betterbecause my idea would inhibit the<br> heat dispersion due to the<br> fiberglasssurrounding the light<br> fitting.Alan From: Cliff Redus via<br> Personal_Submersibles &! lt;<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> To: Personal Submersibles General<br> Discussion <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> <br> Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2015 8:43<br> AM<br> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED<br> Lights Alan, I am visual kind of guy. <br> Can send me sketch of what you are describing and we can<br> talk. Cliff On<br> Fri, Jul 24, 2015 at 3:23 PM, Alan James via<br> Personal_Submersibles <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> wrote: Looks a good solid light<br> Cliff.On<br> looking at the perpendicular cable entry, I was thinking<br> weneed a back entry for the purposes<br> of mounting in to a housingin<br> the fairing as you have requested in your<br> list.I<br> am looking at mounting in to ballast tanks so will create<br> the shape of<br> the light in the molding to receive it. If there was a<br> threadedextension on the back of the light<br> it could slot through a hole & be<br> securedwith a nut. This would make it<br> easier to seal off the ballast tanks<br> inmy<br> situation.Alan From: Cliff Redus via<br> Personal_Submersibles <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> To: Personal Submersibles General<br> Discussion <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> <br> Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2015 1:55<br> AM<br> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED<br> Lights Ken, if you go to Youtube and do a<br> search on https://youtu.be/D7VnwODU7vk,<br> or 5000 Lumen Bridgelux Vero 18 LED light, you will see a<br> short video of the light. Cliff On<br> Thu, Jul 23, 2015 at 3:29 PM, Ken Martindale via<br> Personal_Submersibles <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> wrote: Cliff, How<br> do I look at them?? Ken From: Personal_Submersibles<br> [mailto:<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org">personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org</a>]<br> On Behalf Of Clifford Redus via<br> Personal_Submersibles<br> Sent: Thursday,<br> July 23, 2015 4:18 PM<br> To: Personal<br> Submersibles General Discussion <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED<br> Lights Now<br> that Jon has the forum site set up for the LED light<br> project, my suggestion is to move the discussion to the<br> forum site called out in Jon's email. BTW, I have<br> uploaded to the site the wiring diagram and housing drawings<br> for the 5000 Lumen light that was designed by the ME<br> students I was mentoring last<br> year. Cliff On<br> Thu, Jul 23, 2015 at 2:55 PM, Ken Martindale via<br> Personal_Submersibles <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> wrote:Doing the dimming electrically is<br> easy but the problem is the extra wiring and where do you<br> mount the Potentiometer? We can<br> include the wires in the cable for use as an option this<br> also complicates the cabling. Instead of two wires we would<br> require 4 wires. Personally I also like the dimming<br> since it will extend the time you can use it out of the<br> water. Anybody also like or dislike? Cliff would like to<br> delete. You<br> guys! be sure to keep reading the spec. it will have almost<br> daily updates for a while. Ken From: Personal_Submersibles<br> [mailto:<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org">personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org</a>]<br> On Behalf Of Alan James via Personal_Submersibles<br> Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2015 3:31 PM<br> To: Personal Submersibles General<br> Discussion <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED<br> Lights Cliff,<br> Ken,I<br> like the dimming option. The 10,000 lumens may be too much<br> light insome low visibility conditions<br> where there is a lot of back<br> scatter.The<br> 5,000 lumen option may act like a fog<br> light.Also I am thinking of having<br> lights mounted to the side which may<br> notneed to be as<br> intense.Depth rating.... looking at the<br> drawings of various 10,000 meter light<br> housings,it<br> seems simple to achieve a reasonable depth without much more<br> cost.Potting the board..... I would be<br> careful about what was potted in case some of<br> thecomponents needed to get rid of a<br> bit of heat.Mechanical housing..... ! with you<br> on that one Cliff. Like the idea of the recessed<br> light.Alan From: Clifford Redus via<br> Personal_Submersibles <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> To: Person! al Submersibles General<br> Discussion <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> <br> Sent: Friday, July 24, 2015 4:06<br> AM<br> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED<br> Lights Ken, good first pass at the<br> specs. Below are comments. BTW, I will post these here<br> as I have not been able to get the activation code back yet<br> on registering at the<br> forum. Item 2.1 DC Voltage. If it were<br> me, I would stick with nominal battery bank voltages of 24<br> and 36 VDC. When I switch to MK 101 thrusters, I dropped<br> my main battery bank voltage to 36VDC my instrumentation bus<br> is 24VDC. Would need a single fuse holder to accept<br> fuses to handle different nominal<br> voltages. Item 4.0 Depth Requirement. In<br> the spirit of keeping cost down, I think 500 meters (1640<br> ft) would be more than enough. I know Scott is designing a<br> deep diving boat but is any one else shooting for more than<br> 500m? 6.0<br> Dimming. I would omit the ability to dim the light. <br> Yes I know it is easy from an electrical point of view but<br> it forces us to go with more pins on the subsea connector. <br> I am thinking on installing multiple lighs so I could just<br> control on/off for each light. I could go either way on<br> this but in the spirit of KISS, I vote to omit<br> dimming. 8.3<br> Ports I would change plastic to acrylic. I don't<br> think we will end up here but if we do, we can use PVHO flat<br> view port calcs to size the acrylic<br> lens. 9.0<br> Printed Wiring Boards. I really like the way the Minn-Kota<br> motor controller PWBs are potted. Rather than using the<br> spray on hydrophobic coatings, to me we should pot the board<br> (accept for access to fuse). Therefore suggest changing<br> the word coated to<br> potted. 11.0 Mechanical Housing. I<br> suggest. The LED panel light and PCB shall be contained<br> in a single 1-atm flange mounted cylindrical housing with<br> a low profile that can be recessed in a FRP shell with<br> attachment screws from the rear of the flange. The housing<br> should contain a single 29 LED Array rated at 10,000<br> lumens with a rated power of 91-140<br> lumens/W (109-71W). Mounting holes will be provided for<br> an optional SS yoke style support bracket. <br> Material: Hard anodized 6061-T6 or<br> 7071-T6 TBD (I have a grey beard machinist friend that<br> owns a machine shop. He loves 7071-T6 as it is a dream to<br> machine and stronger than<br> 6061-T6. On<br> Thu, Jul 23, 2015 at 9:52 AM, Ken Martindale via<br> Personal_Submersibles <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> wrote: Cost is critical. The electronics<br> should be a small part of the cost. The housing might be the<br> most expensive. Hope you guys are reading the<br> specification. Ken From: Personal_Submersibles<br> [mailto:<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org">personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org</a>]<br> On Behalf Of Clifford Redus via<br> Personal_Submersibles<br> Sent: Thursday,<br> July 23, 2! 015 10:18 AM<br> To: Personal<br> Submersibles General Discussion <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] LED<br> Lights Jon, thanks for setting up the<br> forum. I am assuming we can post files as<br> well. &nb! sp;I agree low cost is<br> important but having a functioning light is as well. OTS<br> LED utility lights like that one you noted are not an option<br> unless they can be potted. To me the best way to keep the<br> cost low, is to publish construction drawings of a 1-atm<br> DIY housing that a psubber could machine or have machined<br> by a friend, and publish a design of a PCB that could be<br> easily fabricated using one of the PCB online sites like<br> ExperessPCB www.expresspcb.com and<br> DIY populate the board. As a group, we design and build a<br> prototype that I can test in my shop. If it works as<br> designed, then we post to the psubs site a report, that<br> includes the design drawings, circuit diagram, parts list<br> and test<br> results. Getting a consciences on the<br> design spec is the first<br> step. Cliff On<br> Wed, Jul 22, 2015 at 10:11 PM, Jon Wallace via<br> Personal_Submersibles <<a ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br> wrote:<br> My three words of advice...cost, cost, cost.<br> <br> One measure of a success for<br> this project will be how many people actually build/use<br> it. If it costs more to manufacture than just purchasing<br> something like <a href="http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Lights/DC-Mobile-Equipment-Lights/12-24-VDC-3120-LUMEN-16-LED-UTILITY-FLOOD-LIGHT-12-999-B.axd" target="_blank">http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Lights/DC-Mobile-Equipment-Lights/12-24-VDC-3120-LUMEN-16-LED-UTILITY-FLOOD-LIGHT-12-999-B.axd</a><br> off the shelf then it's real world application by<br> psubbers may be limited.<br> <br> Over-spec'ing the design above requirements<br> for typical recreational operations (ie 10,000 psi<br> capability) is likely going to drive up the cost. Also,<br> let's remember that "cheap", "low<br> cost", and "good price" are relative terms<br> for a diverse group like PSUBS so include realistic<br> estimates of parts and manufacturing especially if tooling<br> is required.<br> <br> Jon<br> <br> _______________________________________________<br> Personal_Submersibles mailing list<br> <a ymailto="mailto:Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org">Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org</a><br> <a href="http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles%C2%A0" target="_blank">http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles </a><br> _______________________________________________<br> Personal_Submersibles mailing list<br> <a ymailto="mailto:Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org" href="mailto:Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org">Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org</a><br> <a 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