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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>Thanks,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'>Ken<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal><b><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span></b><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Alan James via Personal_Submersibles<br><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, June 18, 2015 7:25 PM<br><b>To:</b> Personal Submersibles General Discussion<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] TEST!!!<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'>Hearing you Ken.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'>Alan<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><span style='font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div><div><div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center;background:white'><span style='font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'><hr size=1 width="100%" align=center></span></div><p class=MsoNormal style='background:white'><b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>From:</span></b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'> Ken Martindale via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br><b>To:</b> 'Personal Submersibles General Discussion' <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> <br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, June 19, 2015 11:19 AM<br><b>Subject:</b> [PSUBS-MAILIST] TEST!!!</span><span style='font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt;background:white'><span style='font-family:"Helvetica",sans-serif;color:black'><br>TEST!!!<br><br>-----Original Message-----<br>From: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org">personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org</a>] On Behalf Of via Personal_Submersibles<br>Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 4:28 PM<br>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion<br>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Over Pressure Valve<br><br>How do you keep water from going back down the valve, and into the sub, if it opens when submerged?<br><br>Keith T<br><br>via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br><br>>If the pressure differential exceeds the preset cracking  pressure, the <br>>valve will open on its own to relieve the excess pressure.  If the pressure <br>>differential is less than the cracking pressure, it would have  to be <br>>opened manually.  If the differential were only slightly greater than  <br>>the preset cracking pressure, I suppose opening it manually would open  <br>>it wider for more rapid equalization on many types of valves.<br>>Jim<br>> <br>> <br>>In a message dated 6/18/2015 2:40:58 P.M. Central Daylight Time, <br>><a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a> writes:<br>><br>> <br>>Jim,<br>>          In that case  is it necessary to bump the sealed check valve <br>>to make it open?<br>> <br>> <br>>Alec,  I guess what I meant to say was if the check valve is left in  <br>>an open line to the outside all the time, rather than being isolated by  <br>>another valve.<br>> <br>>Brian<br>><br>>--- <a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>  wrote:<br>><br>>From: via Personal_Submersibles  <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><br>>To:  <a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a><br>>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST]  Idea..?<br>>Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2015 14:53:15 -0400<br>><br>><br>><br>>Brian, it also has to do with cracking pressure.  When  you surface the <br>>sub might be slightly over pressure but not with enough  differential <br>>to open the valve automatically.  That's when you open it  manually.  <br>>That would also equalize pressure if you have negative  pressure in the <br>>sub to make it a whole lot easier to open the  hatch.<br>>Jim<br>> <br>> <br>>In a message dated 6/18/2015 1:40:32 P.M. Central Daylight Time, <br>><a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a> writes:<br>><br>>It is nothing but a T shape sealed by a spring. If internal  pressure <br>>builds up, it pushes the spring and the valve opens. So it is a  <br>>normally closed valve... but I suppose you could say its "open all the <br>>time"  in the sense that anytime pressure builds up, it will open.<br>><br>>On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 2:35 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <br>><<a href="mailto:_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_">_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_</a> <br>>(mailto:<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>) ><br>>wrote:<br>><br>><br>>Couldn't you, theoretically,  have that valve open to the  outside all the <br>>time?  <br>> <br>>Brian<br>><br>>--- <a href="mailto:_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_">_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_</a> <br>>(mailto:<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)  wrote:<br>><br>>From: Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <br>><<a href="mailto:_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_">_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_</a> <br>>(mailto:<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>) ><br>>To:  Personal Submersibles General Discussion <br>><<a href="mailto:_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_">_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_</a> <br>>(mailto:<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>) ><br>>Subject:  Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?<br>>Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2015 12:15:57  -0400<br>><br>><br>><br>> <br>>I think most have an OP valve, and I'd strongly encourage any  who <br>>don't to put one in. If you read Kittredge's book, the lack of an OP  <br>>valve was the cause of the only K-boat accident so far. Fortunately  <br>>nothing happened to him, but Kittredge had a slow cabin air leak during  <br>>his dive and upon surfacing blew out the dome when just below the <br>>surface.  He was blown out himself with it. The sub sank, and he <br>>proceeded to  re-float it without losing beat. I use the OP valve <br>>routinely to  equalize pressure so I can open the hatch easily. Just a <br>>little push on  the stem does it. One thing about OP valves, they have <br>>to be capable of  handling large flow rates. Don't use a little Swagelok check valve or such  small thing.<br>><br>><br>>Best,<br>><br>>Alec<br>><br>><br>><br>><br>><br>><br>><br>>On Thu, Jun 18, 2015 at 10:55 AM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <br>><<a href="mailto:_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_">_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_</a> <br>>(mailto:<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>) ><br>>wrote:<br>><br>>Also  Alec,  I noticed your check valve overpressure valve in the  photo <br>>section.  That seems like a great solution to the  problem!  I guess I was <br>>not aware of that, does everybody  have one of those?<br>><br>><br>>Brian<br>><br>>--- <a href="mailto:_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_">_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_</a> <br>>(mailto:<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)  wrote:<br>><br>>From: hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles <br>><<a href="mailto:_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_">_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_</a> <br>>(mailto:<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>) ><br>>To:  Personal Submersibles General Discussion <br>><<a href="mailto:_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_">_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_</a> <br>>(mailto:<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>) ><br>>Subject:  Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?<br>>Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2015 05:25:30  -0700<br>><br>><br>><br>>personally, I always avoid welding a machined part to the  hull.  I <br>>weld a flange or nipple to the hull then bolt or thread  the machined part to that.<br>> This is my solution to a lack of  tooling and expertise.<br>>Hank  --------------------------------------------<br>>On Thu, 6/18/15, James  Frankland via Personal_Submersibles <br>><<a href="mailto:_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_">_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_</a> (mailto:<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>) >  wrote:<br>><br>>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?<br>>To:  "Personal Submersibles General Discussion" <br>><<a href="mailto:_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_">_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_</a> <br>>(mailto:<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>) ><br>>Received:  Thursday, June 18, 2015, 4:58  AM<br>><br>>Hi<br>>Alec\Brian, Yes, maybe it  would<br>>push in.  A flat step would probably be better like  you<br>>say.  But maybe im over thinking it as usual.  Probably<br>>not required. Brian, I used the<br>>5\8ths  bar because that's what was specified on the<br>>plans.  However, its also convenient for using a 16mm<br>>reamer for the  bore. <br>>regardsJames<br>>On 18 June 2015  at 03:04,<br>>Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_">_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_</a><br>>(mailto:<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>) ><br>>wrote:<br>>Oh  cool !  Thanks Alec<br>>!    I owe you  much over the years<br>>! Brian<br>>--- <a href="mailto:_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_">_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_</a><br>>(mailto:<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)<br>>wrote:<br>><br>>From:  Alec Smyth via<br>>Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_">_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_</a><br>>(mailto:<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>) ><br>>To:  Personal Submersibles General Discussion <br>><<a href="mailto:_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_">_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_</a> <br>>(mailto:<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)<br>>><br>>Subject:  Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?<br>>Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 16:40:56  -0400<br>><br>>Hi Brian,<br>>I tend to use quite  thick<br>>through-hulls because its easier for me to machine  the O-ring grooves <br>>into the shaft than into the insert. In  my case its just a matter of <br>>the tooling I have on hand. If  you have the tooling to put the grooves <br>>in the insert, half  an inch is fine for many  applications.<br>>Best,<br>><br>>Alec<br>>On<br>>Wed,  Jun 17, 2015 at 3:22 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles  <br>><<a href="mailto:_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_">_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_</a><br>>(mailto:<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>) ><br>>wrote:<br>>Alec,  James,  I'm<br>>using mostly 1/2" stainless rod through-out  for most all of my hull <br>>penetrations ( for valves and  flaps) ,  I noticed in the example it <br>>was a 5/8" rod,  Why such a heavy duty thickness?  Was that for a  <br>>particular function? Brian<br>><br>>--- <a href="mailto:_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_">_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_</a><br>>(mailto:<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)<br>>wrote:<br>><br>>From:  Alec Smyth via<br>>Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_">_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_</a><br>>(mailto:<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>) ><br>>To:  Personal Submersibles General Discussion <br>><<a href="mailto:_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_">_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_</a> <br>>(mailto:<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>)<br>>><br>>Subject:  Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?<br>>Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 14:03:17  -0400<br>><br>>Hi James,<br>>I think<br>>with the taper,  this would tend to push in and jam. The idea is neat, <br>>however,  and would probably work fine with a step instead of a taper. <br>>On  the other hand, does an O ring sealed through-hull ever fail  <br>>catastrophically? I've had the odd drip, but that's all I've  bad as  <br>>I've seen.<br>>Best,<br>>Alec<br>>On<br>>Wed,  Jun 17, 2015 at 12:26 PM, James Frankland  via <br>>Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_">_personal_submersibles@psubs.org_</a><br>>(mailto:<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>) ><br>>wrote:<br>>Hi  All Seeing as its a<br>>bit quite I thought I would show this  idea.  Its super simple.... I <br>>have been thinking  how you could stop a leaking through hull.  <br>>Thinking of K  boat type 5\8th through hulls as in the plans. I  <br>>believe Scott had a leak when he did his deep test due to a  faulty O <br>>ring?<br>><br>>Anyway, here is my idea.  It<br>>would take a little bit more machining, but not  much. <br>>Machine the 5\8ths bar with a taper on the  protruding part and a taper <br>>on the top to help push the bar  through.<br>>(I did that on mine anyway).  The handle is  made with a cam type end.<br>><br>>If you get  a<br>>leak, you can pull the handle up.  The bar would be  pulled up, forcing <br>>the taper to jam into the penetrator,  hopefully stopping most of the <br>>leak.  I suppose you could  even machine a matching taper into the <br>>start of the through  hull to match? I suppose the bar could get pushed  <br>>through and jam on its own.  That's  a possibility. Pic attached. Kind <br>>RegardsJames ​<br>><br>>_______________________________________________<br>><br>>Personal_Submersibles  mailing list<br>><br>><a href="mailto:_Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org_">_Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org_</a> <br>>(mailto:<a href="mailto:Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org">Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org</a>)<br>><br>><a href="http://www.psubs.org/m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