<DIV style="font-family:Arial, sans-serif; font-size:10pt;"><DIV>Oh cool ! Thanks Alec ! I owe you much over the years !</DIV><DIV> </DIV><DIV>Brian<BR>--- personal_submersibles@psubs.org wrote:<BR><BR>From: Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles@psubs.org><BR>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles@psubs.org><BR>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?<BR>Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 16:40:56 -0400<BR><BR></DIV><DIV dir="ltr">Hi Brian,<DIV><BR></DIV><DIV>I tend to use quite thick through-hulls because its easier for me to machine the O-ring grooves into the shaft than into the insert. In my case its just a matter of the tooling I have on hand. If you have the tooling to put the grooves in the insert, half an inch is fine for many applications.</DIV><DIV><BR></DIV><DIV>Best,<BR><BR>Alec </DIV></DIV><DIV><BR><DIV>On Wed, Jun 17, 2015 at 3:22 PM, Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles <SPAN dir="ltr"><<A href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A>></SPAN> wrote:<BR><BLOCKQUOTE style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex; border-left-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-left-width: 1px; border-left-style: solid;"><DIV style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"><DIV>Alec, James, I'm using mostly 1/2" stainless rod through-out for most all of my hull penetrations ( for valves and flaps) , I noticed in the example it was a 5/8" rod, Why such a heavy duty thickness? Was that for a particular function?</DIV><DIV> </DIV><DIV>Brian<BR><BR>--- <A href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A> wrote:<BR><BR>From: Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <<A href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A>><BR>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion <<A href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A>><BR>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Idea..?<BR>Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2015 14:03:17 -0400<BR><BR></DIV><DIV><DIV><DIV dir="ltr">Hi James,<DIV><BR></DIV><DIV>I think with the taper, this would tend to push in and jam. The idea is neat, however, and would probably work fine with a step instead of a taper. On the other hand, does an O ring sealed through-hull ever fail catastrophically? I've had the odd drip, but that's all I've bad as I've seen.</DIV><DIV><BR></DIV><DIV>Best,</DIV><DIV><BR>Alec</DIV></DIV><DIV><BR><DIV>On Wed, Jun 17, 2015 at 12:26 PM, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles <SPAN dir="ltr"><<A href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A>></SPAN> wrote:<BR><BLOCKQUOTE style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex; border-left-color: rgb(204, 204, 204); border-left-width: 1px; border-left-style: solid;"><DIV dir="ltr"><DIV>Hi All</DIV><DIV> </DIV><DIV>Seeing as its a bit quite I thought I would show this idea. Its super simple....</DIV><DIV> </DIV><DIV>I have been thinking how you could stop a leaking through hull. Thinking of K boat type 5\8th through hulls as in the plans.</DIV><DIV> </DIV><DIV>I believe Scott had a leak when he did his deep test due to a faulty O ring?<BR><BR>Anyway, here is my idea. It would take a little bit more machining, but not much. Machine the 5\8ths bar with a taper on the protruding part and a taper on the top to help push the bar through. (I did that on mine anyway). The handle is made with a cam type end. <BR><BR>If you get a leak, you can pull the handle up. The bar would be pulled up, forcing the taper to jam into the penetrator, hopefully stopping most of the leak. I suppose you could even machine a matching taper into the start of the through hull to match?</DIV><DIV> </DIV><DIV>I suppose the bar could get pushed through and jam on its own. That's a possibility.</DIV><DIV> </DIV><DIV>Pic attached.</DIV><DIV> </DIV><DIV>Kind Regards</DIV><DIV>James</DIV><DIV> </DIV><DIV><IMG width="499" height="535" src="cid:20150617190448.F3918D71@m0005297.ppops.net"><BR></DIV></DIV>
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