<html><body><div style="color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;font-size:10pt"><div><span>Hi Cliff,</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;"><span>I've been happy that we've brought up a lot of issues on the thread & found some solutions</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;"><span>like the connectors James suggested.</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;"><span>I am feeling
that our high amp draw problem is unique because we are going with Minnkotas.</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;"><span>They are designed as an adjunct to a petrol motor on an outboard boat, & if they went to 48V</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;"><span>or more to get the amps down, then the extra battery expense for the angler would cost them in sales.</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;"><span>As said to Jon, I don't think the connector is
<span id="misspell-1" class=""><span>going</span></span> to be any smaller if we go to 2 wires, because they tend</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;"><span>to pack out the cables to make them round & the connector heads are round. </span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;"><span>To me the ideal set up would be a hull penetrator with cable running to a female connector. All one <span id="misspell-3" class=""><span>piece</span></span>.</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal;
background-color: transparent;"><span>Then a male connector that screws in to a pipe that in turn screws in to the stub of the motor. Alternative to a pipe</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;"><span>could be a T connection that takes the compensating air line.</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;"><span>The male connector would be wired direct on to the motor contacts.</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;"><span>If you want to go cheap, simple, small;
then have blueglobe cable glands on the motor & hull & a piece</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;"><span>of appropriate cable between them.</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;"><span>Both Carsten & Emile have them on either side of the hull penetration as a bit of insurance.</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;"><span>Emile tested a Blueglobe to 3000psi before it started to extrude.</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size:
13px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;"><span>But that solution doesn't work for David & I.</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;"><span>I am away for a Month & won't be ordering anything till I get back. I think we aren't going to get any further</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;"><span>till we pull a motor apart & maybe work backwards from there.</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande',
sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;"><span>Cheers Alan</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-size: 13px; font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;"><span><br></span></div><div><br></div> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;"> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> <div dir="ltr"> <hr size="1"> <font size="2" face="Arial"> <b><span style="font-weight:bold;">From:</span></b> Cliff Redus via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles@psubs.org><br> <b><span style="font-weight: bold;">To:</span></b> Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles@psubs.org> <br> <b><span style="font-weight: bold;">Sent:</span></b>
Monday, August 4, 2014 9:36 PM<br> <b><span style="font-weight: bold;">Subject:</span></b> Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MK-101 Connectors<br> </font> </div> <div class="y_msg_container"><br><div id="yiv3351750982"><div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><div><span></span></div><div></div><div>Been buried with work in Australia. I have not had time to properly follow all the email traffic on this thread. I hope to have some time to digest the thread when I get back home in about two weeks. I did have a quick look at the Subconn HPBH4M four pin connector that can handle 50 amps per pin as well as the note Alan posted on using two of these pins for a thermistor for motor temp. While it would be nice to have a motor temperature sensor (3 wire RTD would be better than thermistor), for
me this four pin connector is just too large and bulky for this application. I feel like we are trying to make this connector work just because we have a discount with SubConn connectors. I am
not sure this is the best connector for this application. There are a lot of commercial thrusters operating at this current rating at higher voltages than 36v that don't look anywhere near the size of this connector. I think we need to do a little research and look what commercial thruster suppliers for ROVs are using for DC wet matable connectors. We need more options. I agree the cost for these SubConn connectors looks good but only if it works and makes sense.</div><div><br clear="none"></div><div>Trying to standardize a connector for these MK-101 is proving to be more of a challenge than I anticipated particularly given the motor is pressure compensated and the differential pressure across the connector is less than 5 psi.</div><div><br clear="none"></div><div>Alan, I did see one of your notes brining up the issue of how do make up this bulk head connector on the MK-101 lower unit. I have not done so yet on
the MK-101 I have but it
looks from the drawing like it would be easy to pull the rotor assembly from the stator by removing two screws from the prop end of the unit. I was planning on machining a bushing that would screw into the support boss on the thruster and screw the bulkhead fitting into this. The drawing looks like it would be easy to push the bulkhead connector pigtails into this bushing, connect the wires to the existing wires by soldering and use shrink tubing to insulate and reassembly the MK-101. Won't know until I pull one apart. </div><div><br clear="none"></div><div>Has anyone disassembled a MK-101 lower unit? Is it as easy as it looks? The wires connections on the MK 36V motor controller are just simple 1/4" spade connections. I am wondering if they used the same spade connectors in the MK101 body? </div><div><br clear="none"></div><div>BTY, these spade connections on the MK-36V motor
controller don't look like
they could handle 50 amps but MK has been using these successfully for a long time. Go figure?</div><div><br clear="none"><br clear="none">Regards</div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;"><br clear="none"></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; background-color: transparent;">Cliff</div><div><br clear="none"></div><div><br clear="none"></div> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> <div dir="ltr"> <div class="yiv3351750982hr" style="margin:5px
0px;padding:0px;border:1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204);height:0px;line-height:0;font-size:0px;"></div> <font face="Arial" size="2"> <b><span style="font-weight:bold;">From:</span></b> Alan via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles@psubs.org><br clear="none"> <b><span style="font-weight:bold;">To:</span></b> Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles@psubs.org> <br clear="none"> <b><span style="font-weight:bold;">Sent:</span></b> Saturday, August 2, 2014 1:28 AM<br clear="none"> <b><span style="font-weight:bold;">Subject:</span></b> Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MK-101 Connectors<br clear="none"> </font> </div> <div class="yiv3351750982y_msg_container"><br clear="none"><div id="yiv3351750982"><div><div>Hi James,</div><div>they look great, all the reviews were really positive.</div><div>They were saying 10AWG max for the 4mm. But there is a 5.5mm version.</div><div><span><a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" target="_blank"
href="http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2087">http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2087</a></span></div><div><span>The Subconn high power connectors have 8AWG on the cable end, which is 3.2mm</span></div><div><span>diameter, so hopefully the 5.5mm will do. They are on ebay as polymax 5.5mm</span></div><div><span>gold connectors & ship from the USA.</span></div><div><span>I will try & find some locally.</span></div><div><span>Thanks,</span></div><div><span>Alan</span></div><div><br clear="none"><span>Sent from my iPad</span></div><div class="yiv3351750982qtdSeparateBR"><br clear="none"><br clear="none"></div><div class="yiv3351750982yqt8875263788" id="yiv3351750982yqt33864"><div><br clear="none">On 1/08/2014, at 11:01 pm, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles <<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank"
href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br clear="none"><br clear="none"></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div dir="ltr"><div>Hi Alan,</div><div>Just a thought on the connector issue. These connectors are really good. 80amps and they can be pulled apart. They come in various sizes with a plastic shield.</div><div> </div><div>
<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" target="_blank" href="http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__67__4mm_Gold_Connectors_10_pairs_20pc_.html">http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__67__4mm_Gold_Connectors_10_pairs_20pc_.html</a></div><div> </div><div> </div>
</div><div class="yiv3351750982gmail_extra"><br clear="none"><br clear="none"><div class="yiv3351750982gmail_quote">On 1 August 2014 11:11, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br clear="none">
<blockquote class="yiv3351750982gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;padding-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(204, 204, 204);border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid;"><div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue, 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, 'Lucida Grande', sans-serif; font-size: 10pt; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">
<div><div><div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,;"><div><span>Hi David,</span></div>
<div><span>not sure if you got my last email as this is replying to my previous one. Strange things</span></div><div><span>have been happening lately with my emails.</span></div><div><span>Yes you can poke the cable through the blueglobe cable gland, connect the wires,</span></div>
<div><span>screw the blueglobe into it's fitting, then tighten the blueglobe around the cable.</span></div><div><span>I have a heap of them, but they are the M16. I think we might have to go with the M32</span></div><div>
<span>rather than M20, to have a chance of pushing the wires as well as the connector through </span></div><div><span>the fittings opening, </span><span style="font-size:10pt;">before screwing in the blueglobe, if you follow. There is the option to</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size:10pt;">buy them with an adapter.</span></div><div>I think Jon is <span><span>verifying</span></span> whether there is a 2 terminal 50 amp SubConn <span><span>connector</span></span>. A 2 wire version</div>
<div>would enable the wires + <span style="font-size:10pt;">joiner to fit through easier, however I like the 4 wire version as you can </span></div><div><span style="font-size:10pt;">use the other 2 wires </span><span style="font-size:10pt;">for your thruster temperature monitoring.</span></div>
<div><span style="background-color:transparent;">we might be best to run the connector issues past Ken Martindale. He specializes in</span><br clear="none"></div><div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,;">
<span>power electronics & has helped me in the past. If he's not listening in I could email him</span></div><div><span>before we go out & buy.</span></div><div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,;">
<span>I had a look in an electrics store today & couldn't find a spade connector that could take 50 amps.</span></div><div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,;">
<span>I had that problem with my last sub. Nothing is simple.</span></div><div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,;">
<span>There are these gold plated high current cable joiners.</span></div><div style="background-color:transparent;"><span><a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" target="_blank" href="http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=HC4064">http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=HC4064</a><br clear="none">
</span></div><div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,;">They would probably have a lower profile than a spade connector of the same amp rating.</div>
<div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,;">They are about an inch long so you would need around 6 inches of shaft to fit them in if you connected 4</div>
<div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,;">wires & had them staggered. </div>
<div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,;">Alternatively you can slice & solder the wires together, but don't have the same convenience in swapping thrusters.</div>
<div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,;">Trying to think all this through as I have $1000- worth of SubConn connectors that have been sitting in a box</div>
<div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,;">for the last 3 years<img title="*:( sad" style="font-size:10pt;" alt="*:( sad"></div>
<div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,;">Will see what Cliff makes of all of this. He is hanging out with Kangaroos
somewhere in the Aussie outback </div><div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,;">
at the moment.</div><div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,;">Alan</div>
<div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,;"><br clear="none"></div><div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,;">
<br clear="none"></div><div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,;"><br clear="none"></div><div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,;">
<br clear="none"></div><div><br clear="none"></div> <div style="font-family:HelveticaNeue,;"> <div style="font-family:HelveticaNeue,;">
<div><br clear="none"><br clear="none"></div><div><div dir="ltr"> <div class="yiv3351750982hr" style="margin:5px 0px;padding:0px;border:1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204);height:0px;line-height:0;font-size:0px;"></div> <font face="Arial"> <b><span style="font-weight:bold;">From:</span></b> David Colombo via Personal_Submersibles <<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></font><div>
<br clear="none"> <b><span style="font-weight:bold;">To:</span></b> Personal Submersibles General Discussion <<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> <br clear="none">
</div><b><span style="font-weight:bold;">Sent:</span></b> Friday, August 1, 2014 7:52 PM<div><br clear="none"> <b><span style="font-weight:bold;">Subject:</span></b> Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MK-101 Connectors<br clear="none"> </div>
</div><div><div class="yiv3351750982h5"> <div><br clear="none"><div><div><div dir="ltr"><div>Hi Alan,<br clear="none"></div>With the blue globe male fitting into the top of the shaft, there would be no twisting of wires based upon one of there videos I watched on how to install., I Thought that I could use a flat blade connector and sleeve receiver from the subconn, to mate to the MK wires and I would not have to push the wires much into the shaft. Its amazing that this information takes so much energy to work out the design, You'd think subconn, has come across this question before
since its what they do.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none"></div><div><br clear="all"><div>Best Regards,<br clear="none">David Colombo<br clear="none"><img width="200" height="147"><br clear="none">
804 College Ave<br clear="none">
Santa Rosa, CA. 95404<br clear="none">(707) 536-1424<br clear="none"><a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" target="_blank" href="http://www.seaquestor.com/">http://www.seaquestor.com/</a><br clear="none"><br clear="none"></div>
<br clear="none"><br clear="none"><div>On Tue, Jul 29, 2014 at 3:38 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br clear="none">
<blockquote style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;padding-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(204, 204, 204);border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid;"><div><div><div style="color:rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,;">
<div><div><div>David,</div><div>I am a few emails behind here, but that is exactly the solution I was thinking of.</div><div>One problem I envisaged with the short shaft section that comes out of the motor,</div><div>is how do you attach the wires. Connections can get pretty bulky especially after</div>
<div>insulating them. You can't stuff excess wire down in to the motor. Also you would</div><div>have to have room to twist the wires in the opposite direction to that of the connector </div><div>prior to screwing in the connector. I am not sure if it is easy to pull the motor apart & </div>
<div>attach <span style="font-size:10pt;">the wires from a connector straight to the motor. </span></div><div>The blue globe cable gland have an adaptor that you can
screw the blue globes</div><div>in to. If you used an adaptor you would create more room for pulling the wire</div><div>connections through.</div><div>If as I had suggested earlier, we had taylor made connectors with fittings on both</div>
<div>ends, it could be problematic with large holes being bored through exostructure</div><div>to get from hull to motor. I am thinking of situations like the R300 where the cable</div><div>may need to penetrate a ballast tank.</div>
<div><div>Alan</div><div><br clear="none"></div><div><br clear="none"></div><div><br clear="none"><br clear="none">Sent from my iPad</div><div><br clear="none"><br clear="none"></div></div><div><div><div><div><br clear="none">
On 30/07/2014, at 8:42 am, David Colombo via Personal_Submersibles <<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br clear="none">
<br clear="none"></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div dir="ltr">Hi Jon, I am having a short shaft machined to screw into the Mk treads, with a hollow bore, and a series of side taps that will be be used for temp sensors, and for compensating (oil or air not chosen yet). The mk wires will be attached to the end of the outlet side of the subcon connector and threaded thru a blueglobe seal. creating a pig tail assembly. I am not using the Mk shaft as the attachment point for the thrusters as I have a kort nozzle assembly for attachment to the sub body. Designed for ease of removal and bench inspection and optional compensation after future testing with the sensors on heat build up.<br clear="none">
</div><div><br clear="all"><div>Best Regards,<br clear="none">David Colombo<br clear="none"><img width="200" height="147"><br clear="none">
804 College Ave<br clear="none">
Santa Rosa, CA. 95404<br clear="none"><a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" href="">(707) 536-1424</a><br clear="none"><a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" target="_blank" href="http://www.seaquestor.com/">http://www.seaquestor.com/</a><br clear="none">
<br clear="none"></div>
<br clear="none"><br clear="none"><div>On Tue, Jul 29, 2014 at 10:22 AM, Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank" href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br clear="none">
<blockquote style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;padding-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(204, 204, 204);border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid;">
<div>
<div><br clear="none">
How will the penetrator connect to the MK housing? Do you mean
having subconn manufacture that end of the cable with threads to
match the MK stub?<div><br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
On 7/29/2014 11:49 AM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles wrote:<br clear="none">
</div></div><div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>More connector thoughts.</div>
<div>Would we be better off having penetrators rather than
connectors?</div>
<div>I believe they taylor make these connectors / penetrators, so
why not have a</div>
<div>penetrator for the through hull & a penetrator on the
other end of the cable for </div>
<div>fitting straight on to the thruster. Perhaps a combination of
penetrator &</div>
<div>connector to get through any exostructure that might be in
the way.</div>
<div>I am not hot on this subject, just learning.</div>
<div>Alan</div>
<br clear="none">
</blockquote>
<br clear="none">
</div></div>
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