<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Hi James,</div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">they look great, all the reviews were really positive.</div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">They were saying 10AWG max for the 4mm. But there is a 5.5mm version.</div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><a href="http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2087">http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2087</a></span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">The Subconn high power connectors have 8AWG on the cable end, which is 3.2mm</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">diameter, so hopefully the 5.5mm will do. They are on ebay as polymax 5.5mm</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">gold connectors & ship from the USA.</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">I will try & find some locally.</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Thanks,</span></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Alan</span></div><div><br><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;">Sent from my iPad</span></div><div style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><br>On 1/08/2014, at 11:01 pm, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite" style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto;"><div><div dir="ltr"><div>Hi Alan,</div><div>Just a thought on the connector issue. These connectors are really good. 80amps and they can be pulled apart. They come in various sizes with a plastic shield.</div><div> </div><div>
<a href="http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__67__4mm_Gold_Connectors_10_pairs_20pc_.html">http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__67__4mm_Gold_Connectors_10_pairs_20pc_.html</a></div><div> </div><div> </div>
</div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On 1 August 2014 11:11, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,Lucida Grande,sans-serif;font-size:10pt;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">
<div><div><div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:10pt;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)"><div><span>Hi David,</span></div>
<div><span>not sure if you got my last email as this is replying to my previous one. Strange things</span></div><div><span>have been happening lately with my emails.</span></div><div><span>Yes you can poke the cable through the blueglobe cable gland, connect the wires,</span></div>
<div><span>screw the blueglobe into it's fitting, then tighten the blueglobe around the cable.</span></div><div><span>I have a heap of them, but they are the M16. I think we might have to go with the M32</span></div><div>
<span>rather than M20, to have a chance of pushing the wires as well as the connector through </span></div><div><span>the fittings opening, </span><span style="font-size:10pt">before screwing in the blueglobe, if you follow. There is the option to</span></div>
<div><span style="font-size:10pt">buy them with an adapter.</span></div><div>I think Jon is <span><span>verifying</span></span> whether there is a 2 terminal 50 amp SubConn <span><span>connector</span></span>. A 2 wire version</div>
<div>would enable the wires + <span style="font-size:10pt">joiner to fit through easier, however I like the 4 wire version as you can </span></div><div><span style="font-size:10pt">use the other 2 wires </span><span style="font-size:10pt">for your thruster temperature monitoring.</span></div>
<div><span style="background-color:transparent">we might be best to run the connector issues past Ken Martindale. He specializes in</span><br></div><div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent">
<span>power electronics & has helped me in the past. If he's not listening in I could email him</span></div><div><span>before we go out & buy.</span></div><div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent">
<span>I had a look in an electrics store today & couldn't find a spade connector that could take 50 amps.</span></div><div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent">
<span>I had that problem with my last sub. Nothing is simple.</span></div><div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent">
<span>There are these gold plated high current cable joiners.</span></div><div style="background-color:transparent"><span><a href="http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=HC4064" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect">http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=HC4064</a><br clear="none">
</span></div><div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent">They would probably have a lower profile than a spade connector of the same amp rating.</div>
<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent">They are about an inch long so you would need around 6 inches of shaft to fit them in if you connected 4</div>
<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent">wires & had them staggered. </div>
<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent">Alternatively you can slice & solder the wires together, but don't have the same convenience in swapping thrusters.</div>
<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent">Trying to think all this through as I have $1000- worth of SubConn connectors that have been sitting in a box</div>
<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent">for the last 3 years<img title="*:( sad" style="font-size: 10pt;" alt="*:( sad" src="https://s.yimg.com/ok/u/assets/img/emoticons/emo2.gif"></div>
<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent">Will see what Cliff makes of all of this. He is hanging out with Kangaroos
somewhere in the Aussie outback </div><div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent">
at the moment.</div><div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent">Alan</div>
<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent"><br></div><div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent">
<br></div><div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent"><br></div><div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-style:normal;background-color:transparent">
<br></div><div><br clear="none"></div> <div style="font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:10pt"> <div style="font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:12pt">
<div><br><br></div><div><div dir="ltr"> <hr size="1"> <font face="Arial"> <b><span style="font-weight:bold">From:</span></b> David Colombo via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>><div>
<br clear="none"> <b><span style="font-weight:bold">To:</span></b> Personal Submersibles General Discussion <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> <br clear="none">
</div><b><span style="font-weight:bold">Sent:</span></b> Friday, August 1, 2014 7:52 PM<div><br clear="none"> <b><span style="font-weight:bold">Subject:</span></b> Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] MK-101 Connectors<br clear="none"> </div>
</font> </div><div><div class="h5"> <div><br clear="none"><div><div><div dir="ltr"><div>Hi Alan,<br clear="none"></div>With the blue globe male fitting into the top of the shaft, there would be no twisting of wires based upon one of there videos I watched on how to install., I Thought that I could use a flat blade connector and sleeve receiver from the subconn, to mate to the MK wires and I would not have to push the wires much into the shaft. Its amazing that this information takes so much energy to work out the design, You'd think subconn, has come across this question before
since its what they do.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none"></div><div><br clear="all"><div>Best Regards,<br clear="none">David Colombo<br clear="none"><img width="200" height="147" src="https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/384615_253448681433508_1443740147_n.jpg"><br clear="none">
804 College Ave<br clear="none">
Santa Rosa, CA. 95404<br clear="none">(707) 536-1424<br clear="none"><a href="http://www.seaquestor.com/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect">www.SeaQuestor.com</a><br clear="none"><br clear="none"></div>
<br clear="none"><br clear="none"><div>On Tue, Jul 29, 2014 at 3:38 PM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br clear="none">
<blockquote style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;padding-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204);border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid"><div><div><div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:HelveticaNeue,"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Arial,"Lucida Grande",sans-serif;font-size:10pt;background-color:rgb(255,255,255)">
<div><div><div>David,</div><div>I am a few emails behind here, but that is exactly the solution I was thinking of.</div><div>One problem I envisaged with the short shaft section that comes out of the motor,</div><div>is how do you attach the wires. Connections can get pretty bulky especially after</div>
<div>insulating them. You can't stuff excess wire down in to the motor. Also you would</div><div>have to have room to twist the wires in the opposite direction to that of the connector </div><div>prior to screwing in the connector. I am not sure if it is easy to pull the motor apart & </div>
<div>attach <span style="font-size:10pt">the wires from a connector straight to the motor. </span></div><div>The blue globe cable gland have an adaptor that you can
screw the blue globes</div><div>in to. If you used an adaptor you would create more room for pulling the wire</div><div>connections through.</div><div>If as I had suggested earlier, we had taylor made connectors with fittings on both</div>
<div>ends, it could be problematic with large holes being bored through exostructure</div><div>to get from hull to motor. I am thinking of situations like the R300 where the cable</div><div>may need to penetrate a ballast tank.</div>
<div><div>Alan</div><div><br clear="none"></div><div><br clear="none"></div><div><br clear="none"><br clear="none">Sent from my iPad</div><div><br clear="none"><br clear="none"></div></div><div><div><div><div><br clear="none">
On 30/07/2014, at 8:42 am, David Colombo via Personal_Submersibles <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> wrote:<br clear="none">
<br clear="none"></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div dir="ltr">Hi Jon, I am having a short shaft machined to screw into the Mk treads, with a hollow bore, and a series of side taps that will be be used for temp sensors, and for compensating (oil or air not chosen yet). The mk wires will be attached to the end of the outlet side of the subcon connector and threaded thru a blueglobe seal. creating a pig tail assembly. I am not using the Mk shaft as the attachment point for the thrusters as I have a kort nozzle assembly for attachment to the sub body. Designed for ease of removal and bench inspection and optional compensation after future testing with the sensors on heat build up.<br clear="none">
</div><div><br clear="all"><div>Best Regards,<br clear="none">David Colombo<br clear="none"><img width="200" height="147" src="https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/384615_253448681433508_1443740147_n.jpg"><br clear="none">
804 College Ave<br clear="none">
Santa Rosa, CA. 95404<br clear="none"><a rel="nofollow" shape="rect">(707) 536-1424</a><br clear="none"><a href="http://www.seaquestor.com/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect">www.SeaQuestor.com</a><br clear="none">
<br clear="none"></div>
<br clear="none"><br clear="none"><div>On Tue, Jul 29, 2014 at 10:22 AM, Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br clear="none">
<blockquote style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;padding-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204);border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid">
<div>
<div><br clear="none">
How will the penetrator connect to the MK housing? Do you mean
having subconn manufacture that end of the cable with threads to
match the MK stub?<div><br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
On 7/29/2014 11:49 AM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles wrote:<br clear="none">
</div></div><div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>More connector thoughts.</div>
<div>Would we be better off having penetrators rather than
connectors?</div>
<div>I believe they taylor make these connectors / penetrators, so
why not have a</div>
<div>penetrator for the through hull & a penetrator on the
other end of the cable for </div>
<div>fitting straight on to the thruster. Perhaps a combination of
penetrator &</div>
<div>connector to get through any exostructure that might be in
the way.</div>
<div>I am not hot on this subject, just learning.</div>
<div>Alan</div>
<br clear="none">
</blockquote>
<br clear="none">
</div></div>
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