<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"></head><body><div>Hugh,</div><div>I have started collecting info and and doing R&D on a psubs manipulator. The plan would be to have my wife make the parts on our Plasma Cam and sell it as a inexpensive kit. Hopefully I will have something by the 2015 psubs conference.</div><div>Thanks,</div><div>Scott Waters</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div style="font-size:75%;color:#575757">Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphone</div></div> <br>Hugh Fulton via Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles@psubs.org> wrote:<br>Thanks Hank, great info. And the arms on your project page look pretty<br>smart. What was the wrist movement and how is that accomplished. Was it<br>continual rotation or 180 degree.<br>I see that Hydrolek uses a gerotor. We need a Psubs project to do a manip.<br>Maybe a good subject for the next meeting. Cheers, Hugh <br><br><br><br>-----Original Message-----<br>From: Personal_Submersibles [mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org]<br>On Behalf Of hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles<br>Sent: Friday, 30 May 2014 9:25 a.m.<br>To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion<br>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Manipulator arm<br><br>Hi Hugh,<br>The convertible top pumps are about the same size as a wind shield wiper<br>motor. They are quite small actually. I would say the motor is about 2.5in<br>dia and 6in tall. They develop 1,000 psi, at least the one I tested did. I<br>have only used GM pumps, but I am sure they are all the same more less. Also<br>I have had good success with a common snow plow hyd pump. You will need a<br>hyd valve bank if you use the snow plow pump. The beauty of a top pump is<br>that you do not need a valve bank. Gamma has an aircraft pump that according<br>to the maintenance records works best at 1,100 psi when at max depth of<br>1,000 feet.<br>That means you only need about 650psi above bottom for the arm to work. I<br>have the pressure set at 500 psi for shop testing and it seems good already<br>at that pressure. <br><br>Hank<br>--------------------------------------------<br>On Thu, 5/29/14, Hugh Fulton via Personal_Submersibles<br><personal_submersibles@psubs.org> wrote:<br><br> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Manipulator arm<br> To: "'Personal Submersibles General Discussion'"<br><personal_submersibles@psubs.org><br> Received: Thursday, May 29, 2014, 4:36 PM<br> <br> Hank,<br> That seems like very good advice. I am wanting to do a manipulator but<br>need to get some idea of what lifting or forces are required.<br> What are the pumps you have found to work best. What pressure do they<br>develop? I had no idea what a top pump was so googled it and came up with<br>breast pumps!! I didn't want to make a tit of myself so chased down some<br>more and found that they are for convertible cars. They look a bit on the<br>large side diameter wise. Any brand best? Cheers, Hugh <br> <br> <br> -----Original Message-----<br> From: Personal_Submersibles<br>[mailto:personal_submersibles-bounces@psubs.org]<br> On Behalf Of hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles<br> Sent: Friday, 30 May 2014 12:21 a.m.<br> To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion<br> Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Manipulator arm<br> <br> Scott,<br> No matter how you do it, a manipulator will cost some of money. I have<br>made many and the tendency seems to be, to try and make them strong to<br>lift a lot. Well first off, I think it was Vance that said it best. A<br>manipulator is for manipulating not lifting. With that in mind, large<br>components are not needed. Simple air cylinders from ebay are all that is<br>needed. A 2in bore and depending on manip design, 4in stroke, maybe as<br>much as 6in stroke is all you need. Keep the rod size small at 5/8, that<br>reduces the back pressure. I have said it before, I love convertible top<br>pumps. Consider using one pump per function again purchase from ebay for<br>125 bucks. No need for valves, the pump simply runs in reverse to change<br>direction of the piston. Keep the pumps inside the sub and it is real<br>simple. As for the arm itself, if have made them from cardboard first. <br>You can mock it up that way and find the best pin locations for the<br>cylinders and ensure the cylinders stroke properly without over<br>centering. You can build the arm with square tubing, use 3 inch aluminum<br>so the cylinders fit inside when the arm is folded up. Forget about a<br>wrist until you have lots of time to play around.<br> Four functions will serve a psubber well and can be built for under 1,000<br>dollars. I can send you a convertible top pump to play with if you like.<br> Hank<br> --------------------------------------------<br> On Wed, 5/28/14, swaters via Personal_Submersibles<br><personal_submersibles@psubs.org><br> wrote:<br> <br> Subject: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Manipulator arm<br> To: personal_submersibles@psubs.org<br> Received: Wednesday, May 28, 2014, 9:31 PM<br> <br> Hey guys. I am<br> still working on the manipulator arm project for the K boats. I am a<br>little overwhelmed as to what direction to head. I really don't know where<br>to start because of my lack of knolwedge. Does anyone have any pointers as<br>to where to start? I am thinking about using electric motors rather than<br>hydrolics just because of the amount of external operating<br>peices. 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