<div>Thanks for the dive report and report on lights Alec. They sound really good those lights. </div>
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<div>Im putting my sub in the water Sat. (weather permitting) and im going to hammer the lights, see if i get the white sprouting stuff like you did.</div>
<div>Regards</div>
<div>James<br><br></div>
<div class="gmail_quote">On 22 May 2014 13:41, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote style="BORDER-LEFT:#ccc 1px solid;MARGIN:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;PADDING-LEFT:1ex" class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr">Not much to say about them really... the lights perfectly well, stood up to bangs against the dock, and didn't leak any oil. They are very ruggedly built, I highly recommend them. The brand is "Buyers" and the item number is 1492128.
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<div><a href="http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Lights/DC-Mobile-Equipment-Lights/12-24-VDC-3120-LUMEN-16-LED-UTILITY-FLOOD-LIGHT-12-999-B.axd" target="_blank">http://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Lights/DC-Mobile-Equipment-Lights/12-24-VDC-3120-LUMEN-16-LED-UTILITY-FLOOD-LIGHT-12-999-B.axd</a><br>
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<div>Here are instructions for adapting to sub use:
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<div>If you look at the back of the light, there is a large circular pattern in the light body. The cable goes in just to the right of that circle, but just to the left of the circle you will see a smaller circle about 1/4" in diameter. Look carefully and you'll find the small circle is filled with black silicone that blends into the body of the light. Scoop out that sealant, and you'll find the head of a small screw. Careful, the screw is small and very tight, so make sure you have a screw driver that fits it well, you will need to torque it considerably to unstick. The screw appears to have no function, it does not secure or connect anything. However, if you remove it, you will have a hole you can use for filling with oil. The hole is tiny, so you will need something like a syringe with a dispensing needle. I used McMaster part # 75165A672 and filled with mineral oil. It is an exercise in patience to chase out all the air, turning the light in all directions and squeezing the front lens, but after about an hour I got it to where no more bubbles appeared when the lens was topmost. Once filled with oil, I put the screw back in and covered it with silicone sealant. Apart from filling with oil, all I did was put some epoxy glue around the entry point of the cable. I did two lights, one with mineral oil and the other with mineral oil plus a small quantity of Marvel Mystery Oil. That means one light is crystal clear, the other has a slight red tinge (Marvel is red). I was just attempting to enrich the reds a bit, but I'd say I was splitting hairs.</div>
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<div>Two of these seems to me a sufficient amount of light for the bow of the sub. It I had a K350 with the side viewports, I would consider two more.</div>
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<div>Best,</div>
<div><br>Alec </div>
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<div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 7:57 AM, Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote style="BORDER-LEFT:#ccc 1px solid;MARGIN:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;PADDING-LEFT:1ex" class="gmail_quote"><br>And the new lights?
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