no prob. I was just really suprised no-one said anything at all, i didnt think it had got through!<br><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On 24 April 2014 20:24, Steve McQueen via Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br>
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<div>James, I got it and added to my files. Thanks! I was just trying not to clog the archives with a "thanks" response. <br></div><span class="HOEnZb"><font color="#888888">
<div>Steve<br></div><br></font></span></div>
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<div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Apr 24, 2014 at 3:13 PM, James Frankland via Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br>
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<div>Did anyone get my response and attachment to this post about aluminium welding? I was braced for a firestorm of criticism but nobody said anything. Either everyone agrees, doesnt care or didnt get it....which is it? :)</div>
<div><br>Kind Regards</div>
<div>James F <br><br></div>
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<div class="gmail_quote">On 23 April 2014 15:32, James Frankland <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:jamesf@guernseysubmarine.com" target="_blank">jamesf@guernseysubmarine.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
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<div>Hi All,</div>
<div>I was going to write my 2 pence worth (UK version) in reply to this, but im just going to attach a sheet i wrote which covers all i was going to say. I know there are a lot of expert welders on the forum, so this is just my personal take on it. I can get good results most times. Personally, i dislike the "balled electrode" thinking. It will ball to a certain extent of course, but I dont like it to become bigger than the diameter of the electrode. With correct frequency and as little cleaning as you can get away with, i can keep the ball small and arc tight. The only thing not on this sheet is that torch angle is important. As near to straight up and down as possible, this prevents the rod turning into a sausage before you get it into the pool.</div>
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<div>Just my 2p. </div>
<div>Kind Regards</div>
<div>James F<br><br></div>
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<div class="gmail_quote">On 23 April 2014 01:01, Steve McQueen via Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br>
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<div>Thanks Dan. I did use 100% argon gas but my tungsten has a red band (2% thoriated). I am also getting to know my machine settings so I'm sure they where off. Lots to learn!<span><font color="#888888"><br></font></span></div>
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<div>Steve<br></div>
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<div class="gmail_quote">On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 7:28 PM, Daniel Lance via Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Steve,
<div>Are you using pure tungsten ( green band on one end ) and argon shielding gas ? . With the torch set on DC+ you will usually experience a tungsten melt down. Just set the machine on AC and run a pass on some scrap aluminum . You will get a balled end . Not to complicate things but a balled end is not exactly the most preferred condition in the world. But unless you have an inverter type machine with lots of parameter adjustments you really don't have much choice. Alec is correct the amperage setting depends on the thickness of the material you are working with . If you are trying to join a thin piece to a thick piece its ok to preheat the thick piece first , just don't exceed 250 degrees F. Old oxidized aluminum is very difficult to weld unless the crusty white scale is removed . It should be nice and "shiny" before you start . And of course a little preheat never hurt anybody . Aluminum is a near perfect material for marine use , it is easy to cut , form , shape and weld . It can be painted , anodized or just left in its original mill finish. </div>
<div>As far getting welding advice from Youtube , the only source I would recommend is "Welding Tips and Tricks" . This guy is really, really good .</div>
<div>Hope this helps,</div>
<div>Dan Lance</div></div>
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<div>On Tue, Apr 22, 2014 at 11:49 AM, Steve McQueen via Personal_Submersibles <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>></span> wrote:<br>
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<div>I attempted some Aluminum welding this weekend. I needed to tack 2 together pieces of a trolling motor mount I modified for my stern thruster.<br><br></div>I watched a video that said it is important to first first strike an arc on DC+ for a few seconds to create a "ball" on the tungsten tip prior to going back to the AC mode.<br>
</div><br>It was unclear in the video if the arc was being struck on an Aluminum piece or the Steel welding table surface. Does it matter?<br><br></div>Also they said the amp range should be set to 55-75. Seem OK?<br><br>
</div>Thanks,<br></div>Steve<br></div><br></div></div>
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