<html><body><div style="color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;font-size:12pt"><div><span>Alan,</span></div><div><span>That seems logical providing the void is large enough.  I found with building electrical penetrators that if the void is to small, air pockets are created.  I still think plastic is the way to go because fiberglass resin is only strong when supported by fibers.  The more fibers the stronger it is but less workable in a small void.  Plastic in liquid form flows very well and has strength without fibers.  I will bow to your experience though.</span></div><div><span>Hank</span></div><div class="yahoo_quoted" style="display: block;"> <br> <br> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial,
 Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> <div dir="ltr"> <font face="Arial" size="2"> On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 5:09:38 PM, Alan <alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com> wrote:<br> </font> </div>  <div class="y_msg_container"><div id="yiv5727266835"><div><div>Hi Hank,</div><div>If I can convince Alec that I know what I'm talking about he might</div><div>try this on his 3d printer. I am tempted to buy a printer but it would be</div><div>a bit premature as my CAD skills aren't at a level to export to it yet.</div><div>My latest thoughts are to build larger models up with hollow sections</div><div>that have external flanges to glue them together. Then pour a mold</div><div>release in to the cavity, swirl it around, tip the excess out & allow to</div><div>dry. Possibly a gel coat could be poured in, in a similar process. Then</div><div>fill with the resin & milled fibre. Finally when the resin is set, peel</div><div>or cut off the printed shell.
 Of course with a lot of things like this they</div><div>are easier said than done.</div><div>Alan</div><div><br clear="none"></div><div>  <br clear="none"><br clear="none">Sent from my iPad</div><div class="yiv5727266835yqt5087920271" id="yiv5727266835yqt90829"><div><br clear="none">On 13/11/2013, at 10:53 AM, hank pronk <<a href="mailto:hanker_20032000@yahoo.ca" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:hanker_20032000@yahoo.ca">hanker_20032000@yahoo.ca</a>> wrote:<br clear="none"><br clear="none"></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><div><span>Alan,</span></div><div><span>sounds like you bin there done that</span></div><div><span>Hank</span></div><div class="yiv5727266835yahoo_quoted" style="display: block;"> <br clear="none"> <br clear="none">
 <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> <div dir="ltr"> <font face="Arial" size="2"> On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 12:20:18 PM, Alan <<a href="mailto:alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com">alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com</a>> wrote:<br clear="none"> </font> </div>  <div class="yiv5727266835y_msg_container"><div id="yiv5727266835"><div><div>Hi Hank,</div><div>as an artist I made a number of molds out of different materials. </div><div>Silicone was best but cost N.Z. $70- a liter.</div><div>You need to
 make a supporting structure to pour the silicone in to, </div><div>then on bigger molds, an external support structure for the silicone mold. </div><div>Some times the silicone molds need to be made in two halves.</div><div>So not always easy. I thought about doing the kort nozzle with a mold,</div><div>But it would be a huge amount of work with the mold built in several sections.</div><div>There is probably not a lot on a submarine you would want to mass produce. </div><div>That's why I like the idea of this printing process for one offs.</div><div>Also making the objects hollow will save on printer time & material.</div><div>Alan</div><div><br clear="none">Sent from my iPad</div><div class="yiv5727266835yqt4829572344" id="yiv5727266835yqt35082"><div><br clear="none">On 13/11/2013, at 2:27 AM, hank pronk <<a href="mailto:hanker_20032000@yahoo.ca" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect"
 ymailto="mailto:hanker_20032000@yahoo.ca">hanker_20032000@yahoo.ca</a>> wrote:<br clear="none"><br clear="none"></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><div><span>Alan,</span></div><div><span>How about take the printed mould and make it smaller, then use it to make a rubber mould.  Then you can make as many pieces as the mold can handle.   Unless you have lots of space you will have trouble with thick mixes.</span></div><div><span>Hank</span></div><div class="yiv5727266835yahoo_quoted" style="display: block;"> <br clear="none"> <br clear="none"> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif;
 font-size: 12pt;"> <div dir="ltr"> <font face="Arial" size="2"> On Monday, November 11, 2013 8:43:53 PM, Alan James <<a href="mailto:alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com">alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com</a>> wrote:<br clear="none"> </font> </div>  <div class="yiv5727266835y_msg_container"><div id="yiv5727266835"><div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue, Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, Lucida Grande, sans-serif; font-size: 14pt; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><div><span>Looks good Hank,</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue,;"><span>has only 0.01 shrinkage. So if shrinkage were an issue it may be an option.</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue,;"><span>You could probably mix glass fiber with it to strengthen it.</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family:
 HelveticaNeue,;"><span>Here is an epoxy product that is not quite half the price & has the fiber mixed in it.</span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue,;"><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/EPOXY-RESIN-VERY-HARD-CASTING-RESIN-LIQUID-FIBERGLASS-/310112944078?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item48342bffce" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect">http://www.ebay.com/itm/EPOXY-RESIN-VERY-HARD-CASTING-RESIN-LIQUID-FIBERGLASS-/310112944078?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item48342bffce</a><br clear="none"></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue,;">It is a gel like consistency so
 may not suit every application. Has 0.1
 shrinkage.</div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue,;">Again if I just use the resin + glass fiber, I can mix to my desired consistency.</div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue,;">Another thought that came to mind was to pour a mold release in to the printed shell</div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue,;">& drain it out so as to leave a film on the inside. Then pour in the resin & peel off the</div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue,;">printed outside when set. This would leave a fiberglass product that could be attached with </div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue,;">epoxy to other structures.</div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue,;">Alan</div><div><br clear="none"></div>  <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue,;"> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue,;"> <div
 class="yiv5727266835yqt6981848602" id="yiv5727266835yqt87717"><div dir="ltr"> <div class="yiv5727266835hr" style="margin: 5px 0px; padding: 0px; border: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); height: 0px; line-height: 0; font-size: 0px;"></div>  <font face="Arial" size="2"> <b><span style="font-weight: bold;">From:</span></b> hank pronk <<a href="mailto:hanker_20032000@yahoo.ca" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:hanker_20032000@yahoo.ca">hanker_20032000@yahoo.ca</a>><br clear="none"> <b><span style="font-weight: bold;">To:</span></b> Personal Submersibles General Discussion <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>> <br clear="none"> <b><span style="font-weight: bold;">Sent:</span></b> <br clear="none"> <b><span style="font-weight: bold;">Subject:</span></b> Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Printed Kort
 Nozzle<br clear="none"> </font> </div> <div class="yiv5727266835y_msg_container"><br clear="none"><div id="yiv5727266835"><div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue,;"><div><span>Alan,</span></div><div><span>look at liquid plastic on e bay.  It is cheap and there is one brand that cures at 180 degrees f.  This is polyurethane casting resin.  Nice stuff but maybe
 not for kort nozzles.  </span></div><div><span>Hank </span></div><div class="yiv5727266835yahoo_quoted" style="display: block;"> <br clear="none"> <br clear="none"> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue,;"> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue,;"> <div class="yiv5727266835yqt9347659214" id="yiv5727266835yqt74733"><div dir="ltr"> <font face="Arial" size="2"> On Monday, November 11, 2013 6:03:27 PM, Alan <<a href="mailto:alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com">alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com</a>> wrote:<br clear="none"> </font> </div>  <div class="yiv5727266835y_msg_container"><div id="yiv5727266835"><div><div>Hi Hank,</div><div>I'm not familiar with liquid plastic.</div><div>I use the West systems epoxy, where you have your epoxy & hardener & throw</div><div>In the other additives that give it various properties, like
 hardness. </div><div>The glass fibre will give it a lot of structural strength & I can mix it in as thick or</div><div>as thin as I want depending on the section thickness / complexity of the form I want to fill.</div><div>Also price wise, mixing seems a lot cheaper than off the shelf pre-mixed items.</div><div>Alan<br clear="none"><br clear="none">Sent from my iPad</div><div class="yiv5727266835yqt8034889154" id="yiv5727266835yqt85216"><div><br clear="none">On 12/11/2013, at 1:30 PM, hank pronk <<a href="mailto:hanker_20032000@yahoo.ca" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:hanker_20032000@yahoo.ca">hanker_20032000@yahoo.ca</a>> wrote:<br clear="none"><br clear="none"></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue,;"><div><span>Alan,</span></div><div><span>this may be a dumb question,,, why not use liquid plastic.  The stuff I use is strong and shrinks almost
 nothing.  It also does not generate heat when curing.  This stuff is the harness of a hockey puck.</span></div><div><span>Hank</span></div><div class="yiv5727266835yahoo_quoted" style="display: block;"> <br clear="none"> <br clear="none"> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue,;"> <div style="font-family: HelveticaNeue,;"> <div dir="ltr"> <font face="Arial" size="2"> On Monday, November 11, 2013 5:26:33 PM, Alan James
 <<a href="mailto:alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com">alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com</a>> wrote:<br clear="none"> </font> </div>  <div class="yiv5727266835y_msg_container"><div id="yiv5727266835"><div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue,;"><div>To interested parties,</div><div>I spoke with a 3d printing expert, Richard, regarding filling hollow sections of 3d printed items with</div><div>fiber reinforced resin. He hadn't heard of it, but thought it had a lot of potential.</div><div>He suggested watching out for heat generated in the exothermic reaction, as we had already</div><div>discussed, and printing a roughened interior surface as a key <span style="font-size: 14pt;">for the epoxy, to stop the
 exterior </span></div><div style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: HelveticaNeue,;"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">delaminating.</span></div><div>I also
 spoke to an epoxy tech who told me epoxy
 only shrinks about 1/2% & with additives such as</div><div>milled fiber the percentile shrinkage of the whole will decrease proportionate to the additive.</div><div>So shrinkage may not be a major problem.</div><div>Will do some experimenting.</div><div>Alan</div><div><br clear="none"></div><div><br clear="none"></div><div><br clear="none"></div><div><br clear="none"></div></div></div></div><br clear="none">_______________________________________________<br clear="none">Personal_Submersibles mailing list<br clear="none"><a href="mailto:Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org">Personal_Submersibles@psubs.org</a><br clear="none"><a href="http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" shape="rect">http://www.psubs.org/mailman/listinfo.cgi/personal_submersibles</a><br clear="none"><br clear="none"><br clear="none"></div> 
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