<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div>I'm intrigued with this whole business of 3d printing not just for the nozzle and struts, but also for a garage deployed ROV I have in mind. </div><div><br></div><div>Not to mention scale models of full size concepts to try on for fit!</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>Joe</div><div><br></div><div><br>Sent from my overpriced <div>iPhone</div></div><div><br>On Nov 8, 2013, at 4:23 PM, Private <<a href="mailto:alecsmyth@gmail.com">alecsmyth@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><div>Sorry, the ones I was referring to are LONG fibers mixed with the resin.<br><br><div><br></div></div><div><br>On Nov 8, 2013, at 4:21 PM, "Smyth, Alec" <<a href="mailto:Alec.Smyth@covisint.com">Alec.Smyth@covisint.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
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<div>That's stuff is exactly what I meant by "structural fiberglass". You can't pour it. However, if you made the nozzle in two halves like doughnut-shaped dog bowls, you could fill them both up, put them together, and wipe off the excess.<br>
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On Nov 8, 2013, at 4:17 PM, "Alan James" <<a href="mailto:alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com">alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com</a>> wrote:<br>
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<div><span>Alec / Joe,</span></div>
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<span>these products "milled glass fibers" or "chopped strand glass fibers"</span></div>
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<span> may be OK, in combination with epoxy resin.</span></div>
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<a href="http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/Fillers/fillers.html">http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/Fillers/fillers.html</a><br>
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The more you can add, the stronger the product, but also it becomes thicker</div>
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& harder to pour in to small voids. I would be careful of using polyester resin as it</div>
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would probably melt the printed shell.</div>
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You may be able to use a thin flexible plastic rod to stuff courser mixtures down in to</div>
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the shell.</div>
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Alan</div>
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<font size="2" face="Arial"><b><span style="font-weight:bold;">From:</span></b> Alan <<a href="mailto:alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com">alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com</a>><br>
<b><span style="font-weight: bold;">To:</span></b> Personal Submersibles General Discussion <<a href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</a>>
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<b><span style="font-weight: bold;">Sent:</span></b> Saturday, November 9, 2013 8:10 AM<br>
<b><span style="font-weight: bold;">Subject:</span></b> Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] Printed Kort Nozzle<br>
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<div>Alec / Joe,</div>
<div>I will contact a friend who is in the 3d printing business, and try & find out a bit more</div>
<div>about this application & casting materials.</div>
<div>You would need to incorporate risers (tubes) in the design to vent air for the resin </div>
<div>pouring process, & maybe " keys" on the inside of the mould to give the resin more</div>
<div>grip to the printed shell.</div>
<div>Cheers Alan</div>
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Sent from my iPad</div>
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On 9/11/2013, at 12:24 AM, Alec Smyth <<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:alecsmyth@gmail.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:alecsmyth@gmail.com">alecsmyth@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br clear="none">
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<div dir="ltr">Hi Alan,
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<div>I like this idea! I have a printer I built myself so am a little familiar with them. One of the parameters you provide the printers on each job controls the "filling" of the piece. Normally, to save material that is a sort of cross-hatch, and the parameters
control things like the direction and density of that cross-hatch. But the problem with that, for an underwater application, is that the resulting piece is full of air voids. I'd always assumed I would print something like this solid. However, if you print
it hollow and fill it with structural fiberglass, the end result is going to be a lot stronger than if it's solid plastic. In addition, if we printed by parts but filled it up once those parts are assembled, the resin itself could be the "glue" that holds
those parts together.</div>
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<div>Thanks,</div>
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<div class="yiv2834536275gmail_quote">On Thu, Nov 7, 2013 at 10:01 PM, Alan James
<span dir="ltr"><<a rel="nofollow" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com">alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com</a>></span> wrote:<br clear="none">
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Joe,
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<div>I was re thinking your idea of a printed Kort nozzle.</div>
<div>There are printer kits for $900- that would do the job.</div>
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<div>The ABS printer cable I've seen selling for about $1- an ounce.</div>
<div>The $899- version in the above link could possibly be big enough to print</div>
<div>the nozzle in one shot. If not then print it in sections & glue together.</div>
<div>My idea is to print the nozzle hollow with an egg shell wall thickness & fill it with</div>
<div>a fiber reinforced epoxy resin. The resin may need a few pours to allow for contractions</div>
<div>in the resin while setting.</div>
<div>Maybe under $30- in materials.</div>
<div>I am not at the point where I need this & neither are you, but I think this idea still</div>
<div>holds a lot of promise.</div>
<div>Regards Alan</div>
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