<html><body><div style="color:#000; background-color:#fff; font-family:arial, helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt"><div style="RIGHT: auto"><SPAN style="RIGHT: auto">I used WD-40 for a couple of years and although it seemed to do the job it eventually caused the seals and soft tubes to get brittle.<BR style="RIGHT: auto" class=yui-cursor></SPAN></div>
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<div style="RIGHT: auto">Greg<VAR id=yui-ie-cursor></VAR></div>
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<DIV style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #ccc 1px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; LINE-HEIGHT: 0; MARGIN: 5px 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; HEIGHT: 0px; FONT-SIZE: 0px; BORDER-TOP: #ccc 1px solid; BORDER-RIGHT: #ccc 1px solid; PADDING-TOP: 0px" class=hr contentEditable=false readonly="true"></DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">From:</SPAN></B> Alan <alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com><BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">To:</SPAN></B> Personal Submersibles General Discussion <personal_submersibles@psubs.org> <BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Sent:</SPAN></B> Friday, September 6, 2013 4:21 AM<BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Subject:</SPAN></B> Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print problems<BR></FONT></DIV>
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<DIV>Scott,</DIV>
<DIV>Sorry you have these problems with conference looming.</DIV>
<DIV>I did tests on WD40 a while back & found it dissolved some plastics. It was used in some</DIV>
<DIV>Sub motors. And even if it mightn't dissolve plastics relatively quickly, these oils / spirits could do in time.</DIV>
<DIV>The professional compensating units used on ROVs are a spring loaded cylinder</DIV>
<DIV>that pressurise the oil to about 5 psi, however the pressure drops as the spring</DIV>
<DIV>expands. If you Google ROV compensating unit you may find some. I've seen them for sale</DIV>
<DIV>But they cost an arm & a leg.</DIV>
<DIV>Carsten & Emile are now using a low viscosity high priced silicone oil.</DIV>
<DIV>Not sure what they are using but I believe you can get silicone oil at a viscosity similar to water.</DIV>
<DIV>I air compensate my motors, but have been told oil compensating is safer because</DIV>
<DIV>It is more forgiving if water gets inside the motor, also there is the danger of stuffing your motors</DIV>
<DIV>& losing your ballast air if there is an air leak.</DIV>
<DIV>Sorry, this is a bit of a rave, hope it is helpful.</DIV>
<DIV>Regards Alan</DIV>
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<DIV><BR>Sent from my iPad</DIV>
<DIV><BR>On 6/09/2013, at 2:27 AM, swaters <<A href="mailto:swaters@waters-ks.com" rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:swaters@waters-ks.com">swaters@waters-ks.com</A>> wrote:<BR><BR></DIV>
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<DIV>So first failed test. I filled my oil compensating bladder and used marvel mystery oil. It ate away at the rubber of the bladder. I am useing rubber for landscapping pond liners. I think marvel mystery oil is a solvent. Should I use mineral oil or something?</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Scott Waters</DIV>
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<DIV style="COLOR: #575757; FONT-SIZE: 75%">Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphone</DIV></DIV><BR>"Dan H." <<A href="mailto:jumachine@comcast.net" rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:jumachine@comcast.net">jumachine@comcast.net</A>> wrote:<BR>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Scott</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>In your lathe,, turn and face a piece of stock about 1/2 inch long and a little under the small diameter of your lens. (a flat disk) Flip it around and drill a center hole in it with a center drill as you would in the end of a long shaft you want to turn in the lathe. (A hole to accept the lathe center) Don't go all the way through. Take it out and cover the faced end with strips of double sided tape.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Mount another chunk of round stock, just a little smaller in diameter then the larger diameter of the viewport in the chuck of your lathe. Face it true and cover it's face with double sided tape also. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Center up and stick on your lens blank then take the smaller piece you already prepared, hold it up against the tail stock center and crank it up against the other side of the lens blank. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>With the lens taped to the drive plate and held in place with the force of the tail stock, you should be able to machine the taper you need. Of course, take light cuts and keep a close eye on it. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Dan H.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4"><B>From:</B> <A title=swaters@waters-ks.com href="mailto:swaters@waters-ks.com" rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:swaters@waters-ks.com">swaters@waters-ks.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=personal_submersibles@psubs.org href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, September 05, 2013 9:57 AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print problems</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><SPAN style="FONT-FAMILY: Verdana; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">
<DIV>Vance,</DIV>
<DIV>I am in the process of installing veiwports. How do you chuck up the conical viewport in the lathe to make a mating surface for the "O" ring? Can't seem to figure out how to make it work on the lathe and have access to the edge that I need to cut.</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Scott Waters </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 8px; FONT-FAMILY: verdana; COLOR: black; MARGIN-LEFT: 8px; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" id=yiv161436675replyBlockquote>
<DIV id=yiv161436675wmQuoteWrapper>-------- Original Message --------<BR>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print problems<BR>From: <A href="mailto:vbra676539@aol.com" rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:vbra676539@aol.com">vbra676539@aol.com</A><BR>Date: Wed, June 12, 2013 4:01 pm<BR>To: <A href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A><BR><BR><FONT color=black size=3 face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><FONT class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span size=3>I haven't tried the Nekton style on my K-frames, but will. Gamma uses a cork/neoprene blended gasket material, glued to the frame with aircraft grade gasket cement, but dry on assembly between the gasket and acrylic. If the compression is sufficient on the K-style, it should work there, as well.</FONT>
<DIV><FONT class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span size=3><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>I'm not a big fan of gaskets or flat disc viewports in any case, but 12,000+ dives for the Nektons is a pretty good statement. They work. Do not use straight neoprene gaskets, and I suspect that unglued urethane gaskets fall into the same category. They are too soft and will extrude to the low pressure side.</DIV>
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<DIV>Side note: I HATE using silicone sealant in this kind of application. It works fine, but makes maintenance impossible. If you're going to do it, then just go ahead and build some extra viewports. You'll need them for replacements the next time you paint.</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: medium" class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span><BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: medium" class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span>To complete Dan's (hey, Dan, good to hear from you again) conical viewport--machine a matching notch in the viewport frame, and as Dan describes, take off the corner of the port so that your o-ring sits in a square (in cross section) groove. Compression from your retaining ring will complete the form and it will not leak (ever). No sealant or glue is required for this design.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: medium" class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span><BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: medium" class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span>A well painted frame greased with oxygen compatible grease is what you want. The o-ring serves to keep the deep blue sea out on or near the surface, but the acrylic self-seals against the mating surface under pressure.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: medium" class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span><BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: medium" class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span>As to building the frustrum conical seats, Dan is also right. You can't get there from here without machining after welding. Perry build their conning towers as bolt on units, and that was the primary reason. A conning tower can be handled on regular floor sized machine tools. An entire submarine normally can not.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: medium" class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span><BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><FONT class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span size=3>If I was building another K, it would have some very-Perryesque modifications--a bolt on conning tower with six ports in the cylinder being one of them.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: medium" class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span><BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span size=3>Vance<BR></FONT><BR><BR>
<DIV style="FONT-FAMILY: helvetica, arial; COLOR: black; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">-----Original Message-----<BR>From: Dan H. <<A href="mailto:jumachine@comcast.net" rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:jumachine@comcast.net">jumachine@comcast.net</A>><BR>To: personal_submersibles <<A href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A>><BR>Sent: Wed, Jun 12, 2013 5:56 pm<BR>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print problems<BR><BR>
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<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>I'd prefer to have all conical viewports and I don't think you can properly gasket a conical viewport. A rubber O-ring that seals at the edge where the lens meets the seat is as good as it gets on a conical viewport. The shape of the cone and the pressure on the big side of the cone ensure you'll never have a gap to extrude the O-ring. If it wasn't so difficult to machine the viewport seats conical after they are welded, I would have used all conical lenses and O-ring seals. It's impossible to hold the seat true if you machine a cone first then weld.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Gaskets on the flat viewports may be good too. If it works for Vance then it should work for you.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Dan H.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4"><B>From:</B> <A title=hanker_20032000@yahoo.ca href="mailto:hanker_20032000@yahoo.ca" rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:hanker_20032000@yahoo.ca">hank pronk</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=personal_submersibles@psubs.org href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, June 12, 2013 5:22 PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print problems</DIV>
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<DIV><SPAN>Dan,</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN>are you against gaskets like Vance has on the Necton.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV>Hank<BR></DIV>
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<DIV style="BORDER-BOTTOM: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; LINE-HEIGHT: 0; MARGIN: 5px 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; HEIGHT: 0px; FONT-SIZE: 0px; BORDER-TOP: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; BORDER-RIGHT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; PADDING-TOP: 0px" class=yiv161436675hr></DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">From:</SPAN></B> Dan H. <<A href="mailto:jumachine@comcast.net" rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:jumachine@comcast.net">jumachine@comcast.net</A>><BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">To:</SPAN></B> <A href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A> <BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Sent:</SPAN></B> Wednesday, June 12, 2013 3:04:27 PM<BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Subject:</SPAN></B> Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print
problems<BR></FONT></DIV>
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<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>I used sealant in the rest of the viewports. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>I was concerned that the coefficient of expansion would be to great on the 15 inch viewport so that in really cold water there may be to big of a gap and possibly extrude the O-ring in along side the lens. I know it could be a problem with the sealant also but I simply went with seemed to work for others on the all the rest of my viewports.... Glue them in with sealant!!! </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Dan H.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: rgb(228,228,228); font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>From:</B> <A title=swaters@waters-ks.com href="mailto:swaters@waters-ks.com" rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:swaters@waters-ks.com">swaters</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>To:</B> <A title=personal_submersibles@psubs.org href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, June 12, 2013 4:42 PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print problems</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Dan,</DIV>
<DIV> Did you put o-rings around all your view ports or did you seal the 8 inch veiw ports with sealant?</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Scott Waters</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV style="COLOR: rgb(87,87,87); FONT-SIZE: 75%">Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphone</DIV></DIV><BR>"Dan H." <<A href="mailto:jumachine@comcast.net" rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:jumachine@comcast.net">jumachine@comcast.net</A>> wrote:<BR>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>I don't know. There isn't a lot of room for sealant in a conical viewport. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>I like the fact that if I were to be incapacitated in the sub, all someone would have to do to get access to me is remove the six screws on the lens holder and easily pop the lens out to get access to the interior of the sub when it's not glued in. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>My hatch latches from inside only, as the K-350 plans show.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Dan H.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-LEFT: rgb(0,0,0) 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px" dir=ltr>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: rgb(228,228,228); font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>From:</B> <A title=swaters@waters-ks.com href="mailto:swaters@waters-ks.com" rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:swaters@waters-ks.com">swaters</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>To:</B> <A title=personal_submersibles@psubs.org href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, June 12, 2013 2:22 PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print problems</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>What about 3M marine poly sealant #4000? Would that work?</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Scott Waters</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV style="COLOR: rgb(87,87,87); FONT-SIZE: 75%">Sent from my U.S. Cellular© Smartphone</DIV></DIV><BR>"Dan H." <<A href="mailto:jumachine@comcast.net" rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:jumachine@comcast.net">jumachine@comcast.net</A>> wrote:<BR>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Machine the sharp edge off the top side of the viewport lens so it creates a triangular cross section groove when installed in the conical seat and install an O-ring before bolting down the lens retaining ring. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Do a 10 or 20 time size drawing of the cross section groove area with any standard cross section O-ring of your choice. Draw in the lens edge to create a situation where you have about .020 inch squeeze on all three sides of the triangular gland. (seat, lens retainer and lens edge when the sharp part is machined off) That's how to determine how much to machine the lens edge. Get the squeeze to .020 inch per side on the O-ring. Try fan O-ring of .250 cross section or maybe a little less and see what you think. When you get the O-ring cross section and groove pinned down, pick an O-ring of a diameter that will fit. No sealant necessary.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Also you should grease the O-ring and conical seat before instillation.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Dan H.</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; BACKGROUND: rgb(228,228,228); font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>From:</B> <A title=jonw@psubs.org href="mailto:jonw@psubs.org" rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:jonw@psubs.org">Jon Wallace</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>To:</B> <A title=personal_submersibles@psubs.org href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, June 11, 2013 11:24 PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print problems</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV class=yiv161436675moz-cite-prefix><BR>It was sikaflex all the way around on the 600. The problem with it is that you really have to bang on the viewports to get them out and at least the way I removed them, I would only put back new ones.<BR><BR><BR>On 6/11/2013 11:16 PM, swaters wrote:<BR></DIV>
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<DIV>Why did Kitteregde use a gasket and a "O" ring on the big veiwport and not on the small veiwports. Hank, why did useing the silicone suck? Was it hard to apply or did it not hold up well?</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Scott Waters</DIV><BR></BLOCKQUOTE><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></DIV><BR><BR></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></SPAN>
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