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<DIV><FONT size=3>Scott,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>Marvel Mystery oil is 74% mineral oil, 25% stoddard solvent,
and 1%lard. All the mineral oil I've found in drugstores contains
fragrance. If you want pure mineral oil you can buy it by the gallon
for about $15 at farm supply or veterinary supply stores.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>Alec has the most simple system I've seen for oil compensated
motors. When I saw it I discarded all my other designs The last
I heard he was using MMO because of its lower viscosity instead of mineral
oil. I question how long a rubber bladder will hold up with pure
mineral oil. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3>Jim</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 9/6/2013 7:03:25 A.M. Central Daylight Time,
jgcottrell2002@yahoo.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=#000000 size=2 face=Arial>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: arial, helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: #000; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">
<DIV style="RIGHT: auto"><SPAN style="RIGHT: auto">I used WD-40 for a couple
of years and although it seemed to do the job it eventually caused the seals
and soft tubes to get brittle.<BR class=yui-cursor
style="RIGHT: auto"></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV style="RIGHT: auto"> </DIV>
<DIV style="RIGHT: auto">Greg<VAR id=yui-ie-cursor></VAR></DIV>
<DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: arial, helvetica, sans-serif">
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: times new roman, new york, times, serif">
<DIV dir=ltr>
<DIV class=hr contentEditable=false
style="FONT-SIZE: 0px; BORDER-TOP: #ccc 1px solid; HEIGHT: 0px; BORDER-RIGHT: #ccc 1px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: #ccc 1px solid; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; MARGIN: 5px 0px; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid; LINE-HEIGHT: 0; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px"
readonly="true"></DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial><B><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">From:</SPAN></B> Alan
<alanlindsayjames@yahoo.com><BR><B><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">To:</SPAN></B> Personal Submersibles General
Discussion <personal_submersibles@psubs.org> <BR><B><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Sent:</SPAN></B> Friday, September 6, 2013 4:21
AM<BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Subject:</SPAN></B> Re:
[PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print problems<BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV class=y_msg_container><BR>
<DIV id=yiv161436675>
<DIV>
<DIV>Scott,</DIV>
<DIV>Sorry you have these problems with conference looming.</DIV>
<DIV>I did tests on WD40 a while back & found it dissolved some plastics.
It was used in some</DIV>
<DIV>Sub motors. And even if it mightn't dissolve plastics relatively
quickly, these oils / spirits could do in time.</DIV>
<DIV>The professional compensating units used on ROVs are a spring loaded
cylinder</DIV>
<DIV>that pressurise the oil to about 5 psi, however the pressure drops as the
spring</DIV>
<DIV>expands. If you Google ROV compensating unit you may find some. I've seen
them for sale</DIV>
<DIV>But they cost an arm & a leg.</DIV>
<DIV>Carsten & Emile are now using a low viscosity high priced silicone
oil.</DIV>
<DIV>Not sure what they are using but I believe you can get silicone oil at a
viscosity similar to water.</DIV>
<DIV>I air compensate my motors, but have been told oil compensating is safer
because</DIV>
<DIV>It is more forgiving if water gets inside the motor, also there is the
danger of stuffing your motors</DIV>
<DIV>& losing your ballast air if there is an air leak.</DIV>
<DIV>Sorry, this is a bit of a rave, hope it is helpful.</DIV>
<DIV>Regards Alan</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR>Sent from my iPad</DIV>
<DIV><BR>On 6/09/2013, at 2:27 AM, swaters <<A
title=mailto:swaters@waters-ks.com href="mailto:swaters@waters-ks.com"
rel=nofollow target=_blank
ymailto="mailto:swaters@waters-ks.com">swaters@waters-ks.com</A>>
wrote:<BR><BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite">
<DIV>
<DIV>So first failed test. I filled my oil compensating bladder and used
marvel mystery oil. It ate away at the rubber of the bladder. I am useing
rubber for landscapping pond liners. I think marvel mystery oil is a
solvent. Should I use mineral oil or something?</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Scott Waters</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 75%; COLOR: #575757">Sent from my U.S. Cellular©
Smartphone</DIV></DIV><BR>"Dan H." <<A title=mailto:jumachine@comcast.net
href="mailto:jumachine@comcast.net" rel=nofollow target=_blank
ymailto="mailto:jumachine@comcast.net">jumachine@comcast.net</A>>
wrote:<BR>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Scott</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>In your lathe,, turn and face a piece of stock
about 1/2 inch long and a little under the small diameter of your
lens. (a flat disk) Flip it around and drill a center hole in
it with a center drill as you would in the end of a long shaft you want to
turn in the lathe. (A hole to accept the lathe center) Don't go
all the way through. Take it out and cover the faced end with
strips of double sided tape.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Mount another chunk of round stock,
just a little smaller in diameter then the larger diameter of the viewport
in the chuck of your lathe. Face it true and cover it's face with
double sided tape also. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Center up and stick on your lens blank then
take the smaller piece you already prepared, hold it up against the tail
stock center and crank it up against the other side of the lens blank.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>With the lens taped to the drive plate and held
in place with the force of the tail stock, you should be able to machine the
taper you need. Of course, take light cuts and keep a close eye on
it. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Dan H.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial"><B>From:</B> <A
title=mailto:swaters@waters-ks.com href="mailto:swaters@waters-ks.com"
rel=nofollow target=_blank
ymailto="mailto:swaters@waters-ks.com">swaters@waters-ks.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org
href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" rel=nofollow target=_blank
ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, September 05, 2013
9:57 AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350
blue print problems</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>Vance,</DIV>
<DIV>I am in the process of installing veiwports. How do you chuck up
the conical viewport in the lathe to make a mating surface for
the "O" ring? Can't seem to figure out how to make it work on the
lathe and have access to the edge that I need to cut.</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Scott Waters </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE id=yiv161436675replyBlockquote
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: verdana; COLOR: black; PADDING-LEFT: 8px; MARGIN-LEFT: 8px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid">
<DIV id=yiv161436675wmQuoteWrapper>-------- Original Message
--------<BR>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print
problems<BR>From: <A title=mailto:vbra676539@aol.com
href="mailto:vbra676539@aol.com" rel=nofollow target=_blank
ymailto="mailto:vbra676539@aol.com">vbra676539@aol.com</A><BR>Date: Wed,
June 12, 2013 4:01 pm<BR>To: <A
title=mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org
href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" rel=nofollow target=_blank
ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A><BR><BR><FONT
color=black size=3 face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><FONT
class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span size=3>I haven't tried the Nekton
style on my K-frames, but will. Gamma uses a cork/neoprene blended
gasket material, glued to the frame with aircraft grade gasket cement,
but dry on assembly between the gasket and acrylic. If the compression
is sufficient on the K-style, it should work there, as well.</FONT>
<DIV><FONT class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span size=3><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>I'm not a big fan of gaskets or flat disc viewports in any case,
but 12,000+ dives for the Nektons is a pretty good statement. They work.
Do not use straight neoprene gaskets, and I suspect that unglued
urethane gaskets fall into the same category. They are too soft and will
extrude to the low pressure side.</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Side note: I HATE using silicone sealant in this kind of
application. It works fine, but makes maintenance impossible. If you're
going to do it, then just go ahead and build some extra viewports.
You'll need them for replacements the next time you paint.</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span
style="FONT-SIZE: medium"><BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span
style="FONT-SIZE: medium">To complete Dan's (hey, Dan, good to hear from
you again) conical viewport--machine a matching notch in the viewport
frame, and as Dan describes, take off the corner of the port so
that your o-ring sits in a square (in cross section) groove. Compression
from your retaining ring will complete the form and it will not leak
(ever). No sealant or glue is required for this design.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span
style="FONT-SIZE: medium"><BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span
style="FONT-SIZE: medium">A well painted frame greased with oxygen
compatible grease is what you want. The o-ring serves to keep the deep
blue sea out on or near the surface, but the acrylic self-seals against
the mating surface under pressure.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span
style="FONT-SIZE: medium"><BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span
style="FONT-SIZE: medium">As to building the frustrum conical seats, Dan
is also right. You can't get there from here without machining after
welding. Perry build their conning towers as bolt on units, and that was
the primary reason. A conning tower can be handled on regular floor
sized machine tools. An entire submarine normally can not.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span
style="FONT-SIZE: medium"><BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><FONT class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span size=3>If I was building
another K, it would have some very-Perryesque modifications--a bolt on
conning tower with six ports in the cylinder being one of
them.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span
style="FONT-SIZE: medium"><BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT class=yiv161436675Apple-style-span
size=3>Vance<BR></FONT><BR><BR>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: helvetica, arial; COLOR: black">-----Original
Message-----<BR>From: Dan H. <<A title=mailto:jumachine@comcast.net
href="mailto:jumachine@comcast.net" rel=nofollow target=_blank
ymailto="mailto:jumachine@comcast.net">jumachine@comcast.net</A>><BR>To:
personal_submersibles <<A
title=mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org
href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" rel=nofollow target=_blank
ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A>><BR>Sent:
Wed, Jun 12, 2013 5:56 pm<BR>Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue
print problems<BR><BR>
<DIV id=yiv161436675AOLMsgPart_1_4300eec4-731b-4565-bda3-359bc38668b4>
<DIV class=yiv161436675aolReplacedBody>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>I'd prefer to have all conical viewports
and I don't think you can properly gasket a conical viewport.
A rubber O-ring that seals at the edge where the lens meets the seat is
as good as it gets on a conical viewport. The shape of the
cone and the pressure on the big side of the cone ensure you'll
never have a gap to extrude the O-ring. If it wasn't so difficult
to machine the viewport seats conical after they are welded, I would
have used all conical lenses and O-ring seals. It's impossible to
hold the seat true if you machine a cone first then weld.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Gaskets on the flat viewports may be good
too. If it works for Vance then it should work for
you.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Dan H.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"
dir=ltr>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial"><B>From:</B> <A
title=mailto:hanker_20032000@yahoo.ca
href="mailto:hanker_20032000@yahoo.ca" rel=nofollow target=_blank
ymailto="mailto:hanker_20032000@yahoo.ca">hank pronk</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org
href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" rel=nofollow
target=_blank
ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, June 12, 2013
5:22 PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST]
K-350 blue print problems</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: tahoma, new york, times, serif; COLOR: #000; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fff">
<DIV><SPAN>Dan,</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN>are you against gaskets like Vance has on the
Necton.</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV>Hank<BR></DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: tahoma, new york, times, serif">
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: times new roman, new york, times, serif">
<DIV dir=ltr>
<DIV class=yiv161436675hr
style="FONT-SIZE: 0px; BORDER-TOP: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; HEIGHT: 0px; BORDER-RIGHT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; MARGIN: 5px 0px; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; LINE-HEIGHT: 0; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px"></DIV><FONT
size=2 face=Arial><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">From:</SPAN></B>
Dan H. <<A title=mailto:jumachine@comcast.net
href="mailto:jumachine@comcast.net" rel=nofollow target=_blank
ymailto="mailto:jumachine@comcast.net">jumachine@comcast.net</A>><BR><B><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">To:</SPAN></B> <A
title=mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org
href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" rel=nofollow
target=_blank
ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A>
<BR><B><SPAN style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Sent:</SPAN></B> Wednesday,
June 12, 2013 3:04:27 PM<BR><B><SPAN
style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Subject:</SPAN></B> Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST]
K-350 blue print problems<BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV class=yiv161436675y_msg_container><BR>
<DIV id=yiv161436675>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>I used sealant in the rest of the
viewports. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>I was concerned that the coefficient of
expansion would be to great on the 15 inch viewport so that in really
cold water there may be to big of a gap and possibly extrude the
O-ring in along side the lens. I know it could be a problem with
the sealant also but I simply went with seemed to work for
others on the all the rest of my viewports.... Glue them
in with sealant!!! </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Dan H.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(0,0,0) 2px solid; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"
dir=ltr>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal">-----
Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: rgb(228,228,228); FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>From:</B>
<A title=mailto:swaters@waters-ks.com
href="mailto:swaters@waters-ks.com" rel=nofollow target=_blank
ymailto="mailto:swaters@waters-ks.com">swaters</A> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>To:</B>
<A title=mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org
href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" rel=nofollow
target=_blank
ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A>
</DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Sent:</B>
Wednesday, June 12, 2013 4:42 PM</DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Subject:</B>
Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print problems</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Dan,</DIV>
<DIV> Did you put o-rings around all your view ports or did you
seal the 8 inch veiw ports with sealant?</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Scott Waters</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 75%; COLOR: rgb(87,87,87)">Sent from my U.S.
Cellular© Smartphone</DIV></DIV><BR>"Dan H." <<A
title=mailto:jumachine@comcast.net
href="mailto:jumachine@comcast.net" rel=nofollow target=_blank
ymailto="mailto:jumachine@comcast.net">jumachine@comcast.net</A>>
wrote:<BR>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>I don't know. There isn't a lot
of room for sealant in a conical viewport. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>I like the fact that if I were to be
incapacitated in the sub, all someone would have to do to get access
to me is remove the six screws on the lens holder and easily pop the
lens out to get access to the interior of the sub when it's not
glued in. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>My hatch latches from inside only, as
the K-350 plans show.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Dan H.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(0,0,0) 2px solid; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"
dir=ltr>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal">-----
Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: rgb(228,228,228); FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>From:</B>
<A title=mailto:swaters@waters-ks.com
href="mailto:swaters@waters-ks.com" rel=nofollow target=_blank
ymailto="mailto:swaters@waters-ks.com">swaters</A> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>To:</B>
<A title=mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org
href="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org" rel=nofollow
target=_blank
ymailto="mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org">personal_submersibles@psubs.org</A>
</DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Sent:</B>
Wednesday, June 12, 2013 2:22 PM</DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Subject:</B>
Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print problems</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>What about 3M marine poly sealant #4000? Would that
work?</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Scott Waters</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 75%; COLOR: rgb(87,87,87)">Sent from my
U.S. Cellular© Smartphone</DIV></DIV><BR>"Dan H." <<A
title=mailto:jumachine@comcast.net
href="mailto:jumachine@comcast.net" rel=nofollow target=_blank
ymailto="mailto:jumachine@comcast.net">jumachine@comcast.net</A>>
wrote:<BR>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Machine the sharp edge off the top
side of the viewport lens so it creates a triangular cross section
groove when installed in the conical seat and install an O-ring
before bolting down the lens retaining ring. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Do a 10 or 20 time size drawing of
the cross section groove area with any standard cross section
O-ring of your choice. Draw in the lens edge to
create a situation where you have about .020 inch squeeze on all
three sides of the triangular gland. (seat, lens retainer
and lens edge when the sharp part is machined off) That's
how to determine how much to machine the lens
edge. Get the squeeze to .020 inch per side on the
O-ring. Try fan O-ring of .250 cross section or maybe a
little less and see what you think. When you get the O-ring
cross section and groove pinned down, pick an O-ring of a diameter
that will fit. No sealant necessary.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Also you should grease the O-ring and
conical seat before instillation.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Dan H.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(0,0,0) 2px solid; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal">-----
Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: rgb(228,228,228); FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>From:</B>
<A title=mailto:jonw@psubs.org href="mailto:jonw@psubs.org"
rel=nofollow target=_blank ymailto="mailto:jonw@psubs.org">Jon
Wallace</A> </DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>To:</B>
<A title=mailto:personal_submersibles@psubs.org
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<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Sent:</B>
Tuesday, June 11, 2013 11:24 PM</DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT: 10pt arial; font-size-adjust: none; font-stretch: normal"><B>Subject:</B>
Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] K-350 blue print problems</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV class=yiv161436675moz-cite-prefix><BR>It was sikaflex all
the way around on the 600. The problem with it is that you
really have to bang on the viewports to get them out and at
least the way I removed them, I would only put back new
ones.<BR><BR><BR>On 6/11/2013 11:16 PM, swaters wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 8px; MARGIN-LEFT: 8px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"
type="cite">
<DIV>Why did Kitteregde use a gasket and a "O" ring on the big
veiwport and not on the small veiwports. Hank, why did useing
the silicone suck? Was it hard to apply or did it not hold up
well?</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Scott
Waters</DIV><BR></BLOCKQUOTE><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></DIV><BR><BR></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></SPAN>
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