[PSUBS-MAILIST] Thruster

Mon Feb 6 13:40:36 EST 2023

Thanks Jon, The thought of a protector shield around the second stage had
crossed my mind but I would still need to be able to access the slide
device on the reg just before diving. I am stil not sure how the water is
kept from working it's way down the air lines to the thrusters and accuator
with no positive pressure applied before you get down a few feet and the
pressure starts to kick in? I think Alec experienced that the last time he
dove. Alec, you there to chime in?

Rick

On Mon, Feb 6, 2023 at 2:17 AM Jon Wallace via Personal_Submersibles <
personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

> Seems like you could build a container around the second stage to protect
> it from any surge under tow but still allow pressure for activation.  For
> example, stick it inside a PVC pipe of appropriate size, cap one end and
> point that toward the front.  The open back end will allow in all the
> pressure you need for the diaphragm.
>
> Jon
>
>
> On Monday, February 6, 2023 at 01:05:27 AM EST, Rick Patton via
> Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
>
> Alex was correct. I faced the second stage to the side so that the
> pressure of the water while towing would be lessened on the diaphram but I
> don't think that would stop it just lessen it so my friend who owns several
> dive shops in Seattle after hearing what I wanted to do with it suggested
> that I use the one with the slide mechanism on it to prevent burping. The
> only downside is that I have to remember to have a guy retract it while he
> is unhooking the tow line.
>
> On Sun, Feb 5, 2023 at 6:30 PM Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Thinking about it; towing may suck on the exhaust valve ( venturi effect)
> which is fairly sensitive & cause a free-flowing effect. I guess the only
> solution is to turn the air off while towing, but if you forgot to turn it
> on.....You would need a pressure activated switch that would give you a
> warning when there was no pressure on it. The unit I am making has the
> exhaust valve set at a couple of psi above the main diaphragm pressure, so
> wont be subject to that.
> Alan.
>
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>
> On Mon, 6 Feb 2023 at 3:59 pm, Alec Smyth via Personal_Submersibles
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> Presumably to stop the tow wash from pressing thein  diaphragm?
>
> On Sun, Feb 5, 2023 at 7:56 PM Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Rick,
> I am making a 5psi over pressure regulator.
> It uses a 2nd stage lever valve but has a spring loaded heavy duty
> diaphragm to give it 5psi over-pressure.
> Why do you need a slide mechanism to stop the diaphragm from depressing. I
> havent heard of that before.
> It seems like one more thing that can go wrong if you forgot to un-slide
> it.
> Alan
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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>
> On Mon, 6 Feb 2023 at 12:09 pm, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> I was thinking that to start with. That would keep water ingress until the
> positive pressure kicks in.
> There are as you know a couple of smart people working on perfecting a LP
> regulator for people that want to air compensate.  I have a second stage
> located about as low as I can afford to go with a slide mechanism that
> keeps the diafram from depressing until I have been towed out and ready to
> dive.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 5, 2023, at 9:44 AM, Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Rick,
> another option would be some flexible silicone that you can cut through
> easily if you want to take the clip off.
> Just a bit more insurance.
> Alan
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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>
> On Mon, 6 Feb 2023 at 7:23 am, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> Thanks Alan, in theory, this system makes sense as I have tried some other
> options and they didn't work as after running one for just a very short
> time on the surface to make sure the rhostate was working and pulling the
> motor apart, one of the wires was bare to the copper strands from rubbing
> on the armature.
>  I was going to tig weld a lttle clip to the inside that would capture the
> wires but I was afraid that the heat so close the the sealing surface would
> destort it enough that it would leak.
> I was thinking about putting something on the outside to prevent ingress
> of water before the sub gets down a bit but I was not sure it would hold
> due to the internal pressure once under water?
>  I could use a strong bonding epoxy but I want to be able to remove the
> screw in the future if I have to. Again, won't know if this will be a good
> fix for this tight quarters problem until I dive it.
>
>
> On Sat, Feb 4, 2023 at 10:00 PM Alan James via Personal_Submersibles <
> personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
>
> Looks good Rick.
> You could always put a skin of glue over the bolts & surrounding area (on
> the outside) if you are not sure it will seal. Alan
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>
> On Sun, 5 Feb 2023 at 2:32 pm, Rick Patton via Personal_Submersibles
> <personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:
> I threaded a 1/4” piece of SS flat bar using a #8X32 tap and used it to
> pull the 2 wires against the inner surface of the housing to keep it from
> rubbing against the armature. Sealed the threads with thick pipe dope.
> Hopefully always an external air pressure so if air does make it past the
> threads, it will just be a very small stream of bubbles. Will post the
> results when tested.
>
>
>
>
>
>
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