[PSUBS-MAILIST] PWM

Thu Mar 30 07:24:36 EDT 2017

Rick,
He was referring to a Pulse Width Modulator to adjust the amount of  power 
going to the lights.
Jim

In a message dated 3/29/2017 11:29:44 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
personal_submersibles at psubs.org writes:

Alec,  

I just met a guy in California that made his own underwater housing and  
LED lighting system for doing video and he is using an LED board that is about 
 3" square. He has built a PWM for it so he can dim it down and says it's a 
 10,000 luman 100 watt system that runs on 32 volts.
 I don't know what a PWM is but he said that I didn't necessarily  have to 
have one. I can step my thruster motor supply down from 36V but one of  my 
concerns is how to get rid of the heat. He didn't seem to be too  forthcoming 
with the system he built. I think the LED array was something like  $15 
each on Amazon. How are you controlling the heat in your housings and do  you 
think I would need a PWM for my lite?

Rick

On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 3:34 PM, Alec Smyth via  Personal_Submersibles 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.org> wrote:

My lights are done, I put them on Shackleton earlier today and  they are 
wired through the hull with penetrators. However, the wires end  inside the 
hull because I'm waiting for the drives to arrive, which will be  installed 
inside the sub. I was able to test them with a lab type power  supply on a 
table top, and must say these Bridgelux leds are like a little  sun in a can, I 
love them. These two lights I made are 5K lumens, and I  already have 10K 
lumen Bridgeluxes which I bought by mistake. So I'll test  these, and 
probably make another set with those more powerful ones. If I do,  the 10Ks will be 
the forward lights and the 5Ks will be oriented out to the  sides for 
"peripheral vision". A dimmable driver is sounding like a good  idea, or maybe 
just sunglasses!  

Best,

Alec

On Wed, Mar 29, 2017 at 9:10 PM, Alan via  Personal_Submersibles 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.per> wrote:

Thanks Hank,
Alec  has been making good progress with Cliff's light.
Last  I heard 2 housings were being anodised.
Any  update Cliff / Alec ?
Alan

Sent  from my iPad

On 30/03/2017, at 1:30 PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles  
<personal_submersibles at psubs.ope>  wrote:

You  will be our go to guy for lighting!

On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 6:15  PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.ope>  wrote:

Still building lights Hank,
have  built a couple of housings but are doing a third revision &
hopefully  this one will be perfect. I am pretty happy with how it's going.
Am  getting a different LED driver made up with PWM dimming.
Got  off the motor project temporarily as my brother wanted one of
the  lights for his boat. 😐
Alan

Sent from my iPad

On 30/03/2017, at 12:35 PM, hank pronk via  Personal_Submersibles 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.ope> wrote:

Alan,
Are  you back to work on your motor?   or are you still building  lights?
Hank

On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 4:44  PM, hank pronk via Personal_Submersibles 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.ope> wrote:

Thanks'  Greg

Alan,  my answer is who cares if some water gets between the seals.  The  
important part is to keep the oil inside the motor.  When the  motor starts 
up at the surface, there is significant centrical force  that pushes the oil 
out with the seal in its original  orientation.  I should actually remove 
one of the seals and just  have one seal holding oil in, just like a 
submersible well pump  has.  Those pumps are VERY reliable.  Now having said all  
this, I could be wrong ;-)   Stay tuned for test  results.
Hank

On Wednesday, March 29, 2017 4:31  PM, Alan via Personal_Submersibles 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.ope> wrote:

How are you doing that Hank?
Are  you compensating the gap between the two seals?
Otherwise  you are in the same situation as the Minn kota motors
where  one of the two seals will fail when you go beyond it's depth
rating.
Cheers  Alan

Sent from my iPad

On 30/03/2017, at 10:40 AM, hank pronk via  Personal_Submersibles 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.ope> wrote:

Greg,
Good  points, but I personally am not ready to give up on oil  filling.  I 
have reversed one of the two seals in my new motors  for Elementary.  One 
seal keeps the oil in and one seal keeps  the water out.  I am confident this 
in addition to the  compensation system will make for a clean leak proof set 
up.   The ice is off the lake by my house, so my test lake should be open  
in a week or so.  I will know then if my idea  works.
Hank

On Wednesday, March 29, 2017  7:03 AM, james cottrell via 
Personal_Submersibles <personal_submersibles at psubs.ope> wrote:

I have to say, I no longer think that WD40 is the best for  compensating 
things underwater. Over time it causes plastics and  rubber to harden and 
become brittle.
Silicone oil is better but the other problem with oil  compensation in 
general is that the smallest drop/leak makes a very  visible oil slick around 
your sub (not good). Most guys are using  trolling motors and they're not 
really tight enough to hold thin oil  without leaks.
Back in the 90s I was using air compensation- and it  actually worked 
really well. As far as I know, Karl Stanley has also  been using air compensation 
for a long time without problems.

It's a clean system that's not hard to set up and a small  bottle of air 
lasts for many dives.

Greg C

____________________________________
 From: "MerlinSub at t-online.de via Personal_Submersibles"  
<personal_submersibles at psubs.ope>
To: Personal Submersibles  General Discussion 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.ope> 
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2017  12:55 PM
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD  - 40

On  a brushless motor it will maybe work with mineral oil. 

On  motors with brushes I have bad expierence with that. 
Mineral  oil is a big problem in a lake if a motor is even a little 
untight.  

-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40
Datum: 2017-03-28T17:15:59+0200

Von: "Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles" <personal_submersibles at psubs.ope>
An: "Personal Submersibles General Discussion"  
<personal_submersibles at psubs.ope>

Hi  Carsten, 
                         I did a small test trying to light the WD40 on 
fire.  It's not as  flammable as I thought it would be.  I think they have 
improved  it's non-flammability with new formulation. It's still somewhat  
flammable however. 
I will be using a light mineral oil in my motors.

Brian

--- personal_submersibles at psubs.orp wrote:

From: "MerlinSub at t-online.de via  Personal_Submersibles" <persona
l_submersibles at psubs.ope>
To: Personal Submersibles General Discussion 
<personal_submersibles at psubs.ope>
Subject: Re: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40
Date: Tue,  28 Mar 2017 07:22:02 +0200 (MEST)

Heat  Vapor is may a problem with WD40. 

May  ensure that the compensating back is big to handle that.. 

We  change to silicon oil for that reason. 

vbr  Carsten 

-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: [PSUBS-MAILIST] WD - 40
Datum: 2017-03-28T04:56:46+0200
Von: "Brian Cox via Personal_Submersibles"  
<personal_submersibles at psubs.ope>
An: "PSubs" <personal_submersibles at psubs.ope>

I just ran one of my motors filled with the WD40.  It seemed  to be very 
happy.  I mainly just did it to clean the carbon build  up out of the motor.  
I was surprised how sealed the motor  was, it is open at one end where it 
mates to the gear  box.  I was able to fill it up without it leaking out  
anywhere.  That could be an issue later when I want the mineral  oil to fill all 
the voids.  I might need to actually drill  some holes to get some 
circulation . 

Brian 

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